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Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Klingon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Brown, Mitch Jan '87
Page Views: 2,299 total, 17/month
Shared By: TrevorB on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A bit of mid-route bushwhacking opens the door to some fine thin face climbing from a very scenic and exposed ledge.

Start in T-Crack and veer right into an alcove with a bush hanging from it. Now, throw a piece in the corner and start tree-hugging (keep your feet on the lower ledge) to afford a three bolt anchor (This whole route could be done in one 60M rope length, but is not recommended due to rope drag and communication issues).

Pitch two is a 3-bolt thin, near-vertical face with a plethora of hold types; dime edges, mono-digits, sharp incuts and oyster nubbins. Aesthetic and powerful climbing awaits. And conveniently, the cruxes are located with the bolts about waist high. After the third clip, make sure you head out right for full value.

Protection

Up to 4", slings, and three draws for the top pitch. Bolted anchors on top, set a ways back from the lip (same anchors as the Nose?)

A great addition to your rack might be some hedge trimmers.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.11
Richard Shore  
  5.11
Rapped-in from the top. Hard moves right off the belay ledge - clip the first bolt while on rappel. Sustained throughout the climb on small crimps and one-finger pockets. Feb 12, 2011
Brian Paden
Goleta CA
Brian Paden   Goleta CA
Linking this with the nose makes for an excelent climb with two challenging sections. Continue past the nose until you reach a bolted anchor. From there go left along a ledge to the start of self reflection via an easy fifth class traverse.

Caution: The climbing right off the belay before the first bolt on self reflection is challenging. Set up the beleay with this in mind. If the climber blows the clip they may land on the belayer. Nov 12, 2010
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
 
Whoa! Full value thinness on this thing - not a single move under 10+. We rapped in from the top, avoiding the adventure start. Almost the same anchor as the Nose: there are 2 sets of bolts currently, pretty close to each other. Closer to the edge and with chains are the bolts used for the Nose. Maybe 10 feet away, without chains, and on a slab are the bolts used for Self Reflection.

The bush mentioned above has been torched by the fires, so it might be a little less schwacky to approach that way (as mentioned, I haven't done this yet). The stance at the base of the route has 3 bolts: 1 old SMC, 1 rusted, and 1 quality.

For only being about 30 or 35 feet of climbing, this thing packs a punch! Sequential, balancy, and powerful crimps/strange shallow 2 finger pockets will engage you at the crux, along with scant feet.

Also TR'd the 5.9 line to the right - old looking bolts, pretty mellow moves, a bit licheny, and overall worth doing. Could use repeat ascents for cleaning.

More really fun, easy access rock at Gibraltar. Go climb this stuff!! But don't pull any holds off, as you need every one that's there... Aug 23, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I came back and did the route once again, this time in hot weather and full sun on the upper pitch. The last chunk of climbing surmounting the summit was as challenging as I remembered it. While the route definitely lends itself to a two-pitch ascent, communication and belaying are hampered by the traversing nature of the route, as well as by the infamous BUSH in the alcove. If your follower is climbing at their limit, I recommend climbing Self Reflection in three pitches:

P1: start up T-crack, make a belay in the alcove. Belay takes fingers to big hand-sized pieces.

P2: short and silly, but... anyways, traverse under and around the BUSH and establish hanging belay at bolts.

P3: continue up thin face of Self Reflection. Jun 8, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
What a fabulous route! I started from the bottom up (beginning on T-Crack), and found the 1st pitch to be on the steeper side of adventurous due to copious amounts of sharp, unforgiving vegetation as I transitioned out of the alcove. Don't let the bush deter you, however! I found the moves past the bush quite rewarding (I give it 5.10BUSH) and adds to the ambience.

The top is thin. As in THIN.

Enjoy! Feb 3, 2008