Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Entire route: Amos Clifford & Joe Roland, 1973. Traverse pitch: Chouinard/Bossier?
Page Views: 2,891 total · 23/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Feb 12, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Classic hand traverse to a left facing corner.

Start on Peanut Gallery ledge, and hand traverse right across the horizontal crack that splits the west face of Gibraltar Rock. Instant exposure. Crack takes gear from 1-3 inches. Enter the alcove at the bottom of the left facing corner, and stem and climb your way up the corner, which takes smaller gear. Towards the top of the corner, the crack gets about 6" wide. Face holds help to keep the difficulty down through the OW section. A 2-bolt belay is conveniently located atop the corner, and can be seen in the photo.

An optional first pitch can be added by climbing the loose blocky slabs below and to the left of 'The Nose'. Climb up and left following the path of least resistance to Peanut Gallery ledge.

Location

Start on Peanut Gallery ledge, on the W face of Gibraltar rock (left and above the start of T-Crack route. Have your belayer clip into one of the bolts on the ledge to keep them from getting pulled off in the event of a leader fall.

Protection

if you really want to sew it up, doubles from 0.5 to 3 camalot. A few long slings for the end of the traverse are handy to reduce rope drag.

Photos