Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Klingon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bernd Zeugswetter, Andy Patterson
Page Views: 2,481 total, 31/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Mar 28, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Broken Mirror is a free variation to Mirror in the Bathroom, which was put up as an aid-route sometime in the 80's. Put simply: clean, fascinating, and exceptionally devious face-climbing with some pretty thrilling run-outs.

Long (for SB), sustained, and beautiful.

Location

NW face of Gibraltar rock. To the right of T-Crack.

Protection

8 draws.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Thanks for getting on this rig, Will and Nick. The only cure for grittiness is traffic. May 8, 2012
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
The crux moves coming over the roof are super funky, Will Barnes and I had good fun on it after being shown the line by Andy. A bit gritty from lack of use... May 7, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
From the "Hole-rest" on Broken Mirror, there seems to be a rather tempting line up and left, just waiting to be climbed. The prospective line follows the arc of those concoidal fractures to the right of T-Crack. It would eventually join up with the hand-traverse ledge in the middle of T-Crack. It would need a bolt, probably two. Someone check it out! Mar 26, 2012
Some really hard, really techy moves here. I'm coming back to this one, on top-rope of course! Not sure if I'd ever have the huevos to lead this rig. Can easily be TR'ed using the anchor bolts atop Self Reflection 5.11b/c. Rappel past the starting ledge/3-bolt anchor on Self Reflection to a two-bolt hanging belay another 40' down and slightly left. Feb 20, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
We led on the original bolts, but they weren't buttonheads. Still, they could have been closer together! Dec 17, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Congrats, guys! Did you not replace the old buttonheads? That must be rather thrilling. Mar 31, 2011