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Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Klingon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Unknown (pre-1960)
Page Views: 1,589 total · 24/month
Shared By: Pablo Hammack on Jul 15, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route begins at The Ladder, but when you get to a big ledge you shoot off left and go straight up a zig-zaggy crack. Then traverse left and straight up to the anchors. Definitely bring some slings to reduce rope drag.


Starts on The Ladder


A rack of doubles to 2" and a single 3" will get you up safely.


Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
Way to go on the FA! Amazing that Herb Rickert missed this line! (Oh, wait...) Jul 25, 2013
Pablo Hammack
Pablo Hammack  
If anyone has any information to add about this route or the FA please let me know. THANKS. Aug 14, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
The classic Tucker-Steele guidebook has a topo of Gibraltar Rock that highlights the exact route referred to here as The Bees. The Tucker-Steele book refers to the route as a variation of Midface, FA: Unknown, pre-1960. Aug 14, 2013
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
(There's also the photo of Herb climbing it in 1955 on page 65, hence the "Oh, wait...")

I think it's safe to say that any rock in the front country that doesn't require a heinous, grovely bushwhack has been climbed---and most of the stuff at the end of those heinous grovely bushwhacks has been climbed, too, especially if they're under 5.11. But kudos for keeping the pioneering spirit alive. Aug 15, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Nice psyche, Pablo. Keep it up! I'm looking forward to seeing you hike all the 12s around the corner... Aug 15, 2013
Pablo Hammack
Pablo Hammack  
Thanks guys for giving me the info, appreciate it so much. Aug 15, 2013

More About Variation of the Mid-face