Avg: 4 from 5 votes
Routes in Gibraltar Rock
|Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R|
|Klingon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R|
|T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Andy Patterson, Bernd Zeugswetter|
|Page Views:||1,663 total, 24/month|
|Shared By:||andy patterson on May 11, 2012|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Description"Beware the Jabberwock, my son!
The jaws that bite, the claws that catch!
Beware the Jubjub bird, and shun
The frumious Bandersnatch!"
(from "The Jabberwocky", by Lewis Carroll)
Indeed. This fine addition to Gibraltar climbs a variant passage to Broken Mirror, but still feels like an independent line. The crux possesses thrilling deadpoints, barely-positive open-hand crimps, cryptic footwork, and, should you fall, gut-stoppingbut totally safeairtime.
Start Broken Mirror from the hanging belay, mantle the hole, clip the 2nd bolt, and cast off under the roof. Once you surmount the difficulties and catch the massive jug, reach way out left and clip a bolt (at this point, Broken Mirror goes right. Don't clip the 3rd bolt of Broken Mirror, as it will just create rope-drag). I won't spoil the experience with beta, but the crux begins here. After the crux, climb up and through the belay ledge for Self Reflection and finish on SF's four bolts.