Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Klingon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Unknown (pre-1960)
Page Views: 2,270 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route pulls through the large alcove and overhang on the left-hand side of the main Gibraltar formation.

Start next to "the Nose." Climb a crack to a large alcove. The crux of the route climbs the steep face left of the corner. The corner itself is very off-width and very hard. Pull the roof on the left side for full-value or bypass the roof to the right.

The middle of the route is marked by a large ledge. A second crux is pulling up off of the ledge onto tiny face holds (5.8/5.9). From here, runout face climbing (5.6) leads to the top of the formation.

When top-roping, be very careful. The route is almost exactly 100 feet long and the base of the cliff falls away on one side.

Protection

Gear (tiny to 4"). The top of the route is protected by a single bolt and either medium sized gear or a slung boulder.

Update: On July 6, 2006, the anchor bolt atop this route was replaced. The new bolt is a 13mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.

Photos

Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
I liked the offwidth corner for full value, pulling the left face over the roof is fun, and skirting around the roof to the right is half value at 5.6 or so. Fun movement off the ground too. May 21, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Sorry for not being more clear. As Andy indicates, when top-rope belaying from the base of the route, you could lower the climber off the end of the rope and drop them down Gibraltar Gully. Dec 10, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I think Matt means that the belaying ledge falls away BEHIND the belayer (depends on where you're belaying from). If you're not careful when lowering your partner to the ground, there could be a tumble. When climbing the route, there's no serious swing for the climber that I can remember. It's all in the vertical-to-off-vertical angle. Dec 6, 2012
question. Why do you say when top roping be very careful because the climb is 100 feet long and cliff falls away on 1 side? Are you saying we could fall on the wrong side of the rock and be dangling too far away from the rock to get back on? Dec 5, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.9 R
Richard Shore  
  5.9 R
bring a #4 camalot to protect the crux. The OW corner is a grunt, even if only a few moves long. May 20, 2011
There are ample opportunities to sling things and place gear to back up the bolt. I always bring some long pieces of webbing to setting up Tr at Gibraltar Nov 2, 2009
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
Seems a little odd to only put one bolt at the anchors no matter how bomber... Either way thank you Matthew for taking the initiative to replace many of the anchors and bolts in the area. Mar 29, 2009
Prezwoodz Gray
Anchorage, Alaska
Prezwoodz Gray   Anchorage, Alaska
Climbed the offwidth crack portion on upper area which you list as very hard. I didn't think it was too hard. Probably 10b or so. Big cam to protect the crux but its not really to bad and I thought it was one of the more enjoyable sections of the climb pulling out through the roof. Nov 29, 2008