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Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Klingon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Kevin Brown & Jeff Smith, 1976
Page Views: 559 total, 10/month
Shared By: Mike Stearns on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

TR from the bench just off the road, down the hill from the east face approach trail.

Location

75 ft down Gibraltar Rd. from main area. South side of the road.

Protection

Slings for the tree.

Photos

There are existing anchor bolts on this climb. Only issue is that they are the rusted 1/4 inch hanger less variety. I think Mike is interested in replacing the anchors. Seems like an obscure climb that could see more traffic and maybe clean up a bit w some newer hardwear. Jul 31, 2013
Mike Stearns  
 
Matthew, that is fine with me. I will just avoid climbing this thing again.

The ants were so bad they ended up infesting my entire anchor and then rope. By infest I mean by the end they were raining down on me and biting me while I was TR soloing. Not very pleasant.

Rich, I have a story about Dream Weaver for you next time I see you. ;) Jul 29, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Thanks so much for posting! The trees make great anchors and seeing as many Gibraltar routes already require long anchor cords, anchor bolts definitely do not seem necessary or appropriate. Jul 29, 2013
Nice, Mike. way to keep the SB obscurities alive. Keep seeking them out! Always wondered about this face and route. Supposedly there is a short bouldery 5.10+ crack somewhere on the south/SE face of Gib rock near the road, too.

Please go find your way to the .11d Dave Griffith route above and right of the bolt ladder and report back. Also the .10a R "Dream Weaver" on Cathedral Pk. Never made it to there and always wanted to.. Jul 27, 2013
Mike Stearns  
 
The tree is mega ant infested making for an unpleasant experience.

Is anyone interested in doing this or any other routes on this face? If so, I would be willing to add some anchor and/or lead bolts. If not, that is fine too. Jul 26, 2013