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Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Klingon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,090 total, 56/month
Shared By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A short section of steep hand jamming gives way to moderate (5.6) face climbing. Certainly the steepest jams within 100 miles. When toproping, avoid falling early in the roof or potentially swing into the spike.

Approach: Hike down to the bottom of the main block and curve around towards the west slightly. You'll know it when you see it.

Protection

The pro is good and the crack is reasonably wide. Bolts on top and another set right after the roof.

Update: As of March 2006, the fixed anchors atop the Nose were replaced. The new bolts are a 3/8" Fixe double-wedge expansion bolt and a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.
Phil Requist
  5.10d
Phil Requist  
  5.10d
5.11b?!?!? Maybe you could claim that the original grade (5.10d, which seemed solidly agreed upon for about 20 years) was a letter grade low, but two letter grades? Makunaima is clearly much harder, so if The Nose is 11b then Makunaima is probably 11d and the direct is probably 12b. But I don't agree with any of those grades. Nothing has changed about the route in 40 years - it's still 10d. Mar 26, 2015
Phil Requist
  5.10d
Phil Requist  
  5.10d
I'm always up for changing grades if the original grade was inaccurate. I've been doing this climb since 1985. Back then, the locals were definitely well-versed in Yosemite and Joshua Tree cracks and no one ever mentioned up-rating The Nose. To me, Santa Barbara's ratings have always been benchmarked against Joshua Tree. I doubt this would be 11a in JT; I can point out numerous 11a's there that are harder than The Nose - probably multiple 10d's as well. It's not that I have a strong feeling about this, I just don't see the logic in up-rating it. Jun 19, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
If you're just considering sheer difficulty of moves, The Nose seems harder than T-Crack, but the latter climb packs so much more wallop in terms of continuous movement and exposure. From a leader's perspective, The Nose is waaaay easier to lead than T-Crack. Apr 11, 2010
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.10+
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.10+
Super fun little boulder problem with exposure. Rack: 1 #1, 1 #3 camalot. After a few runs on each, I still think the Nose is easier than T-Crack. Aug 12, 2009
Prezwoodz Gray
Anchorage, Alaska
Prezwoodz Gray   Anchorage, Alaska
I found this very hard. I couldn't seem to get past the crux. At the crux I wasn't able to get my second knuckles in the rock because of my hand size. I don't know if that mattered any but jams just were not working.

Great climb I just wish I could have pulled the last move! Nov 29, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Some "old" climbers in town have called The Nose 5.10d for a long time. They all seem ambivalent to an upgrade to 5.11a, however. I think crack-climbing ratings are tricky anyway, especially when it comes to the hand-size issue. I know some 5.12 climbers who can't even START The Nose. Privately, I might agree with the 5.10+ rating. I think it's mentally easier than T-Crack. May 18, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.11b
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.11b
Thanks for your time and energy Hartley. Oct 9, 2007
I placed those bolts; they're 12mm x 75mm fixe inox triplex's. i went for a bigger chain link because everyone tr's through those anchors and i wanted to reduce dangerous wear. that's also why they're as long as they are - what i considered to be the best place for a tr anchor combined with the most solid rock. the older gear that i pulled out was not actually climbing bolt material - there was no expansion mechanism. it was just two 3/8 x 6" grade 5 hardware store bolts screwed into drywall sleeves. popped right out with the crowbar. criticism noted though - i'll bring a can of paint next time i go up. Sep 19, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.11b
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.11b
Now someone has added what appear to be two 1/2" Rawls with chains at the very top. These match the new HIGHLY visible chains that now grace the wall just above the end of the overhanging crack--there always were 2 bolts and 2 chains, but the older gear has been replaced by much bigger, much shinier stuff. Sep 13, 2007
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Hooray for the new anchor! Apr 7, 2007