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Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Any Minute Now T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Broken Mirror S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crank Start S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inner Tube Toes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Klingon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ladder, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mid-Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Nose, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea of Holes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Self Reflection T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shard, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
T-Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Griffith, Briggs, & Becchio 1990
Page Views: 735 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jun 13, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An overhanging, powerful, and sequential face climb. This route rises from the wreckage of rusted vehicles in the gully below Gibraltar rock's main south face.

A reachy and bouldery start (crux?) leads to the first of four bolts. A stick-clip is advised, or maybe just a really good spotter to keep you from tumbling down the hillside if you blow it. Sustained, pumpy climbing with big moves between good holds leads to the anchor.

Due to the location of the anchor, I don't think this route is easily top-roped.

Protection

4 bolts (3/8") to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

0rland0  
It's pretty easy to toprope the route. We used to rap off a solid manzanita bush about 20 feet over the anchor. The bush is on the path when coming down from the main face of Gibraltar.

Well, after looking at the photo on this page, perhaps the solid bush burned in the last fire. Give it a good kick before using and be sure to have all your affairs in order.

Note that you can preclip the first bolt on the route by climbing good holds slightly to the right of the actual (crank) start. Jul 15, 2015
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Crank This use to be a better variation of this route. After bolt three (I recall) traverse right for a few more bolts. Longer and more sustained and well worth doing once you've walked down there. Mar 15, 2012
A few of the critical holds on this route appear to be reinforced with epoxy. Good climb regardless Jun 14, 2011