Explore this area in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Previous Next
Elevation: 3,642 ft 1,110 m
GPS: 34.58355, -119.26301
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 86,307 total · 360/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 1, 2006
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski
Page Updates (admin only)
Warning Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Sandstone face climbing on large, triangle-shaped formations above Sespe Creek.

The area is characterized by an airiness and sense of exposure that is truly unusual for Ventura and Santa Barbara counties. Currently, only the most obvious and striking lines have been climbed. Still largely undeveloped, there is the potential for many more excellent moderate routes.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Black Wall of Sespe Gorge, continue up the road for about 1/2 mile. Park in the huge dirt turnout on the left, just past the place where Hwy-33 crosses Derry Dale creek. The Fortress is directly overhead!

20 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Fortress Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Fortress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 37
● Blue In Green
Sport
Central Gully
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
● Rational Expectations
Sport
Central Gully
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
● Magali's Arete
Sport
Central Gully
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 73
● Free to Choose
Sport 2 pitches
Right Side Gully
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 98
● Permanent Income Hypothesis
Sport
Right Side Gully
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
● Snickerdoodle
Sport
Central Gully
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 62
● Spontaneous Order
Sport 4 pitches
Central Gully
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
● Consumption Dysfunction
Sport
Right Side Gully
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
● Seven Steps to Heaven
Sport
Central Gully
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
● Straight, No Chaser
Trad
Central Gully
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 36
● Capitalism & Freedom
Sport 2 pitches
Right Side Gully
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
● Adaptive Expectations
Sport
Right Side Gully
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
● Natural Rate of Unemployment
Sport
Right Side Gully
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
● Classically Liberal
Sport
Right Side Gully
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Blue In Green Central Gully
 37
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Rational Expectations Central Gully
 30
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Magali's Arete Central Gully
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Free to Choose Right Side Gully
 73
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
● Permanent Income Hypothesis Right Side Gully
 98
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Snickerdoodle Central Gully
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Spontaneous Order Central Gully
 62
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport 4 pitches
● Consumption Dysfunction Right Side Gully
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Seven Steps to Heaven Central Gully
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Straight, No Chaser Central Gully
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Capitalism & Freedom Right Side Gully
 36
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Adaptive Expectations Right Side Gully
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Natural Rate of Unemployment Right Side Gully
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Classically Liberal Right Side Gully
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Fortress »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

Imprint of Brittle Stars, found on a rock in the Central Gully of the Fortress (4,000 feet above sea level!)
Imprint of Brittle Stars, found on a rock in th…
 53
This photo shows many of the routes in both the Central and Right-Side Gullies at the Fortress. It is now possible, with a little creativity, to link a complete circuit of both gullies.
This photo shows many of the routes in both the…
 8
Nicole nears the top of Rational Expectations, more than 300 feet above Sespe Creek, in the Central Gully of the Fortress.
Nicole nears the top of Rational Expectations,…
 3
Romain & Alberto perched high atop Hwy-33 and Sespe Creek, in the Fortress.
Romain & Alberto perched high atop Hwy-33 and S…
 1
Avoiding the heat, picking a line.
Avoiding the heat, picking a line.
 1
Maidy heading up to the crag.
Maidy heading up to the crag.
 1
Steve belays as Matt cleans Permanent Income Hypothesis, at the Fortress.
Steve belays as Matt cleans Permanent Income Hy…
 1
"The Fortress"<br> Approach the formations by scrambling up a drainage gully in the bottom left of the picture.
"The Fortress" Approach the formations by scra…
 2
This photo portrays the evidence of past activity that I was able to uncover [and has been recently revised]. Please post additional evidence and information on the appropriate page. "Hardware store anchor" refers to what appear to be externally-threaded sleeve bolts--I was able to remove a similar bolt with my fingers (no tools required).
This photo portrays the evidence of past activi…
 2
Alex and David Abzug hike out from the Fotress (April 2011).<br> <br> Heavy rain and snow fall throughout the Winter of 2010/11 has meant wading across Sespe Creek to access Potrero John and the Fortress. It may be a while until you can get across without getting wet.
Alex and David Abzug hike out from the Fotress…
 2
Matilija poppies at The Fortress.
Matilija poppies at The Fortress.
 0
The Fortress, Right Side Gully. This gully includes the two arete climbs "Free to Choose" (5.8) and "Permanent Income Hypothesis" (5.9)
The Fortress, Right Side Gully. This gully incl…
 0

20 Comments

Sort by: Oldest Drop down
Newest Oldest Popular
loading