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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (March 2008)
Page Views: 2,204 total, 19/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 28, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Short but AWESOME route up the summit block above Rational Expectations & Magali's Arete.

The crux is just below the second bolt (and is VERY well protected). The crux involves smearing your feet on the featureless face to the left of the arete. Following the crux, make a big move on the steepest part of the arete (5.9) and continue up the arete to the top.

A fantastic summit awaits you!!

Location

Climbs the right-hand side of the summit block atop Rational Expectations and Magali's Arete. This is the summit block that separates the Right Side Gully from the Central Gully. For more info, click here

APPROACH
Climb either Rational Expectations or Magali's Arete to access the start of Seven Steps.

DESCENT
Descend by rappelling from rings/chains atop the route. It is possible to rappel west to the base of Adaptive Expectations or east into the Central Gully. When rappelling back into the Central Gully, there are two options. If you rappel to the top of Rational Expectations, it will take 3 more raps to reach the creek. If you rappel to the top of Snickerdoodle, it will take 2 more raps to reach the creek (although ropes have been known to get stuck when pulling from Snickerdoodle).

Protection

4 bolts (1/2" Rawls), 2 bolt anchor with rappel rings (Fixe Triplex bolts)
After climbing "Magali's" & Top Roping "Rational Expectations", we ran out of time and did not climb "Seven Steps". Looking forward to checking it out next time I'm there. Looks like a fun, cool summit. Jan 19, 2011