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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (April 2008)
Page Views: 3,339 total · 30/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Nov 25, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An outstanding link up that combines pitches from 4 different routes to climb the western wall of the Central Gully. All belays are positioned at spacious ledges with tremendous views. The summit is spectacular.

While the climbing is not as continuous or quite as high quality as P.I.H., the length and diversity of climbing makes this one of the single best outings in the Fortress.

Pitch 1: Footprints (5.4)
Pitch 2: Blue In Green (5.6 PG13)
Pitch 3: Choose between Magali's Arete, the right-hand variation, and
Rational Expectations, on the left (both 5.7)
Pitch 4: Seven Steps to Heaven (5.10a)

Location

Climbs the right-hand (western) wall of the Central Gully. Approach as for Footprints.

There are 2 possible descents:
Option 1: Rappel the route that you climb, except rappel from the top of Blue In Green to the bottom of Snickerdoodle and then scramble to the top of Footprints (Blue In Green is over 100 feet long!!!)
Option 2: Rappel into the Right Side Gully utilizing anchors on Adaptive Expectations, Capitalism & Freedom, and Free to Choose

Protection

Mostly big fat bolts. A "Fortress Rack" will help fill the gaps on pitches 2 & 3. All belays are bolted.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Comfortable belay ledges and moderate climbing make the first three pitches of this route a great first multi-pitch route for your second.

The large ledge below the fourth pitch (a.k.a. Seven Steps to Heaven) is an impressive destination all by itself. Bring a picnic lunch and rappel from here with an inexperienced second. Apr 3, 2017
Nick Todd  
 
Amazing Route.

Went here first for our second day and was glad that we did. The low January sun was upon the second pitch and up helping our frozen fingers out.

One thing I would say is to not climb snickerdoodle with the thought of transferring over to the anchors of the 2nd pitch (to climb rational expectations or Magalf's arete). We were stuck doing that and it was sketchy to say the least.

I still recommend snickerdoodle, but I would rap back down to the base and do the original line to the second pitch.

---

Rapping down was clean into the right gully. Easily accessible. Jan 27, 2016
In my opinion (not that it really matters), this is really a linkup of 4 separate routes and does not get my vote as a single, 4-pitch route. In spite of what Mike Morley says, Pitch 1 ("Footprints") is mostly 4th class with a small spot of 5th Class (maybe 5.2 but who wants to argue over whether a climb is 5.2 or 5.4). Anyway, just go out and climb all or part of this linkup. I think you'll have fun. Jan 19, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Readers of Mike's post should not be induced to rappel straight down the 2nd pitch (a.k.a. "Blue in Green") with a 60 m rope. If you do not rappel off the ends of your rope and take the plunge, you will need to down-climb some fifth class rock to get to the next anchor.

That pitch is over 30m long.

The two pitches above are certainly not long, but their combined length is well over 100 feet. Mike's comments are detached from reality. Apr 7, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.8
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.8
Describing this as a 4 pitch route is inaccurate and misleading. It is nowhere near 350 feet long, as stated in the description above. From the top of "Footprints" (which is 3rd class terrain), Spontaneous Order is easily climbed in two 100' pitches with no rope drag (this is how we did it), and could very likely be done in a single 200' pitch. With the exception of one 5.8 crux move near the top, I found no climbing harder than 5.6 on the entire route.

More discussion at New routing at "The Fortress" (Ventura). Dec 24, 2009