All Locations > California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Fortress > Central Gully

Spontaneous Order

Name: Spontaneous Order
Rating: 2.8

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in Central Gully

	Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Spontaneous Order S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Straight, No Chaser T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches
GPS:	34.58355, -119.26301
FA:	Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (April 2008)
Page Views:	7,281 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Matthew Fienup on Nov 25, 2008
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure Details

Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.

Description

An outstanding link up that combines pitches from 4 different routes to climb the western wall of the Central Gully. All belays are positioned at spacious ledges with tremendous views. The summit is spectacular.

While the climbing is not as continuous or quite as high quality as P.I.H., the length and diversity of climbing makes this one of the single best outings in the Fortress.

Pitch 1: Footprints (5.4)
Pitch 2: Blue In Green (5.6 PG13)
Pitch 3: Choose between Magali's Arete, the right-hand variation, and
Rational Expectations, on the left (both 5.7)
Pitch 4: Seven Steps to Heaven (5.10a)

Location

Climbs the right-hand (western) wall of the Central Gully. Approach as for Footprints.

There are 2 possible descents:
Option 1: Rappel the route that you climb, except rappel from the top of Blue In Green to the bottom of Snickerdoodle and then scramble to the top of Footprints (Blue In Green is over 100 feet long!!!)
Option 2: Rappel into the Right Side Gully utilizing anchors on Adaptive Expectations, Capitalism & Freedom, and Free to Choose