Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Matthew Fienup & Jesse Groves, October 2007
Page Views: 1,098 total · 8/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 23, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The route follows a meandering line up a shallow water streak which leads to steep face climbing on the left side of the formation. The crux involves a few awkward moves past the second bolt. A second crux involves a few insecure moves past the fifth bolt. In general, the route is marked by steep and sustained but only moderately difficult face climbing.

Be careful not to pull on out on the large, loose flake to the left of the third lead bolt.

Location

This route and its 10d neighbor are located on the front-most and right-most flatiron in the Fortress. From the base of "Free to Choose," traverse 40 yards right to the start of the route. "Consumption Dysfunction" is the left-hand of 2 routes on the formation.

Protection

7 bolts plus 2 open shuts (11kN Fixe Supershuts).

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.9+
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.9+
Interestingly, there was evidence of previous climbing attempts on this route. Approximately 15 feet below the top of the formation were 2 bolts with hangers that were likely used as a top-rope anchor. These were removed and the route now extends all the way to the top. The bolts were located here Oct 23, 2007
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
Such a sweet line thanks Matthew and Jesse. Apr 22, 2016