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Routes in Right Side Gully

Adaptive Expectations S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Capitalism & Freedom S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Classically Liberal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Consumption Dysfunction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free to Choose S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invisible Hand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Natural Rate of Unemployment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Permanent Income Hypothesis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 155 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup, February 2007
Page Views: 2,749 total, 21/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Two sustained and varied pitches up the large formation on the left side of the gully, opposite "Permanent Income Hypothesis."

Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts)
Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.

Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts)
Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.

Location

The route starts just a few feet left of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." Approach as for that route.

Two single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you back to the start of the route. Descend from here by making one more rappel from the top of P1 of "Free to Choose."

Protection

1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts. An optional cam or two (tiny to 1.5")--the 2nd pitch crux is not optimally protected because the rock near the crux is not solid enough to yield a reliable bolt.
Nick Todd
  5.10a/b
Nick Todd  
  5.10a/b
Climbed with just sport gear,and loved it! Yes, there is a part that could use gear, however, we both felt it was well protected in our 'crux' just below the gear-able crack.

I feel the fortress holds the ability to surprise a climber - I needed to think outside-of-the-box to finagle my body up into the middle section of the second pitch.

Overall, possible with sport gear if you comfortable with your lie backing skills. The bolt is there, to the left, trust me. Oct 16, 2017
Monika Anna
Ojai CA
Monika Anna   Ojai CA
Had a great first time on this route! Big fan of edgy, crimpy problems (no joke, the crux is a gasper!) and also got some good practice with slab and a little overhanging chimney action. I got happy feels the whole way up. We did it in a single pitch with a 70m. Jun 14, 2016
Maidy
  5.10b
Maidy  
  5.10b
Super fun climb. We actually just climbed it as one long pitch. The rock quality actually seemed pretty good. A few though-provoking moves both at the bottom and in the top dihedral.

We actually did a single rappel with a 70 meter from Natural Rate's anchor after topping out. We just lowered the follower(me)the 10 feet to the tree, then the leader did a mini rappel while I threaded the anchor to save time. There was a little spare rope on the ground, so I'm *guessing* it probably would have been OK from the tip-top anchor as well (with zero rope to spare) but we weren't 100% sure so we used the lower anchor. Jun 24, 2013
Rob Chaney
5.10b
Rob Chaney  
5.10b
Climbed this route 4/14/2008, on the first pitch there are several clean spots threw the crux sequence looks like flakes have broken off. I have climbed this before and it seem s harder now. there seems to be no good feet wile pulling the crux move. Definitely 10b.

Also we rapped off the back side to the base of Seven Steps to Heaven and got a nice bonus climb. Then rapped back down into the right side gully from the top of Seven Steps.

Climbed this one again on 4/18/2009 and after looking at the broken off flakes they look pretty aged and not recently broken off. the crux sequence is as Matthew decribes in his comment on 3/2/2007 but still I give it a 10b ratting. Apr 15, 2009
Romain Wacziarg
  5.10a/b
Romain Wacziarg  
  5.10a/b
It is possible to link the two pitches as one with a 60 meter rope. This makes for a great, continuous climb with little or no rope drag. Highly recommended. Apr 2, 2009
Romain Wacziarg
  5.10a/b
Romain Wacziarg  
  5.10a/b
I led this for the second time yesterday and agree with those who lean towards a 10b rating for P1. Some stuff may have broken off, too, between bolts 2 and 3. Apr 28, 2007
Eileen
Ventura, California
  5.10a/b
Eileen   Ventura, California
  5.10a/b
I thought the first pitch could deserve a 10a/b rating. I thought so the first time I went up but now that I've done it twice I'm even more leaning towards a 10a/b rating.

Definitely a lovely view! Apr 20, 2007
Kelly Ringwald  
5.10a
Excellent climb matt. Particularly enjoyed the chance to sink a jam or two (and even a pointless cam) on the second pitch. I thought 10.a was pretty fair for the first pitch, don't remember any tricky moves, and 10.b is about where I start to notice.

Watch your step at the base of this one, nearly stepped on a baby rattler all coiled up and invisible on the way out.

Climbed it again and I agree, it's got the best summit and climbing of all the Fortress routes. PIH is a close second just for the exposure on the arete though. Great stuff. Apr 11, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The sequence that I use passing the second bolt is still intact and should last. Pull on positive, opposing side-pulls, hike your feet up, and reach for a good edge near the third bolt (5.10a).

This pitch is better than I remembered! Mar 2, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
"Capitalism" consists of the softest rock of any of the routes put up so far. Expect this pitch to change as it cleans up. The current difficulty rating is dependent upon a few small holds that may or may not last. Feb 22, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This formation gets my vote as the coolest summit that has been climbed thus far--GREAT position and great view of the other routes. Feb 12, 2007