Type: Sport, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup, February 2007
Page Views: 4,583 total · 22/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Two sustained and varied pitches up the large formation on the left side of the gully, opposite "Permanent Income Hypothesis."

Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts)
Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.

Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts)
Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.

Location Suggest change

The route starts just a few feet left of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." Approach as for that route.

Two single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you back to the start of the route. Descend from here by making one more rappel from the top of P1 of "Free to Choose."

Protection Suggest change

1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts. An optional cam or two (tiny to 1.5")--the 2nd pitch crux is not optimally protected because the rock near the crux is not solid enough to yield a reliable bolt.

Photos

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