All Locations > California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Fortress > Right Side Gully

Capitalism & Freedom

Name: Capitalism & Freedom
Rating: 2.8

5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Right Side Gully

	Adaptive Expectations S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Capitalism & Freedom S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Classically Liberal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Consumption Dysfunction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Free to Choose S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Invisible Hand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Natural Rate of Unemployment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Permanent Income Hypothesis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Sport, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	34.58355, -119.26301
FA:	Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup, February 2007
Page Views:	4,808 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Matthew Fienup on Feb 9, 2007
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure Details

Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.

Description

Two sustained and varied pitches up the large formation on the left side of the gully, opposite "Permanent Income Hypothesis."

Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts)
Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.

Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts)
Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.

Location

The route starts just a few feet left of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." Approach as for that route.

Two single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you back to the start of the route. Descend from here by making one more rappel from the top of P1 of "Free to Choose."

Protection

1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts. An optional cam or two (tiny to 1.5")--the 2nd pitch crux is not optimally protected because the rock near the crux is not solid enough to yield a reliable bolt.