Type: Sport, 180 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (January 2007)
Page Views: 10,972 total · 67/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Airy and exposed climbing up one of the most striking aretes in the Fortress.

The crux of the route is right off the ground, passing the first bolt (5.9+). The remainder of the route is steep and sustained (5.8). The last 40 feet are unbelievable!

A 60m rope is an absolute MUST as the route itself is approximately 55m long and the rappels are 30m each.

Location

"Permanent Income Hypothesis" is located in the center of the Fortress, on the huge arete immediately behind and uphill from "Free to Choose."

APPROACH
The best way to approach the start of the route is to climb the first pitch of "Free to Choose." From the P1 anchor, traverse a narrow ledge left to the start of "Permanent Income Hypothesis" (about 80 feet).

DESCENT
(Note: the rappel line is 10 feet to the right of the route. It is not possible to rappel the actual arete without risking a dangerous swing.) Rappel from chains down the gully to the right of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." 30m down the gully is a grassy ledge with bolts. A second rappel will get you back to the start of the route (see photo for more detail). From the start of the route, traverse a narrow ledge to the P1 anchor of "Free to Choose." Make one more rappel to the ground

Protection

16 bolts plus bolted anchors. All bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts.

Photos