Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (December 2007)
Page Views: 274 total · 2/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 11, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Varied and interesting face climbing up the steep headwall in the amphitheater that separates P.I.H. and Capitalism & Freedom.

One heads-up move off the ground (5.8) leads to the first bolt. Climb an easy ramp up and left to a small ledge and the second bolt. Step left onto small face holds and follow five more bolts to the summit. There is a distinct crux encounter at the 5th bolt.

Location

Approach by climbing the first pitch of Capitalism & Freedom (5.10a/b). From the anchor, step right and climb an easy approach pitch (low fifth class) that angles right past 2 bolts and then straight up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of a broad, bush-covered ledge.

Descend by rappelling from the base of Adaptive Expectations to the top of pitch one of Capitalism & Freedom. Make one more rappel down that route.

CAUTION: you can not get to terra firma in one single-rope rappel from the base of Adaptive Expectations.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style sleeve bolts). Cruxes are very well protected.
Romain Wacziarg
  5.10b
Romain Wacziarg  
  5.10b
There is another distinct crux encounter at the 6th bolt. This is a fun route! Feb 23, 2008
staem  
This a great route also. good line, good grade, great for the area. climb it if you come here ok Apr 5, 2010