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Routes in Right Side Gully

Adaptive Expectations S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Capitalism & Freedom S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Classically Liberal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Consumption Dysfunction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free to Choose S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invisible Hand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Natural Rate of Unemployment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Permanent Income Hypothesis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jesse Groves & Matthew Fienup, October 2007
Page Views: 1,366 total, 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 23, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is very unusual for the Fortress--steep and strenuous with lots of dynamic movement. Many of the holds on the route are opposing side-pulls or pinches.

The decisive crux of the route is passing the second bolt. The remainder of the route checks in at sustained 5.9.

Location

This route and its 10a neighbor are located on the front-most and right-most flatiron in the Fortress. From the base of "Free to Choose," traverse 40 yards right to the start of the route. "Classically Liberal" is the right-hand of 2 routes on the formation.

Protection

6 lead bolts (1/2" Rawls) plus 2 open shuts (11kN Fixe Supershuts). Carry a #1 or #2 TCU to really sew it up below the final lead bolt.

Be careful when clipping the second bolt as a fall with slack out will result in ground-fall (less confident climbers can pre-hang a draw or even stick-clip the second bolt from the ground). Once clipped, the second bolt offers excellent protection through the crux sequence.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I second Matt's comment. Don't stray from the direct line of travel and deny yourself the crux! If you misread the sequence past the second bolt, it can feel like 5.12 (as it did for me when I first tried it). Otherwise, with correct beta, the moves emerge elegantly. I don't know how much traffic this climb has received as of late, but this is a MUST DO route at The Fortress. Certainly in my Fortress Top-Five. Jul 17, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This route is 5.11a or b if you stay close to the second bolt. It is possible to climb six feet to the right around the crux, dropping the grade to about 5.10c. Mar 25, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
This route stands out in my mind for its unique moves on rock of surprisingly good quality. The crux, as I recall, seemed quite balancy and technical. Definetely not a thoughtless jug-pull! The upper section stays moderately engaging at 5.9. Feb 21, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Shorter climbers may find that clipping the second bolt is a little reachy and off balance. Oct 23, 2007