PRINT: Rock Climb Consumption Dysfunction, Central Coast

Consumption Dysfunction

5.10a, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 13 votes
FA: Matthew Fienup & Jesse Groves, October 2007
California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Fortress > Right Side Gully

Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure Details

Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.

Description

The route follows a meandering line up a shallow water streak which leads to steep face climbing on the left side of the formation. The crux involves a few awkward moves past the second bolt. A second crux involves a few insecure moves past the fifth bolt. In general, the route is marked by steep and sustained but only moderately difficult face climbing.

Be careful not to pull on out on the large, loose flake to the left of the third lead bolt.

Location

This route and its 10d neighbor are located on the front-most and right-most flatiron in the Fortress. From the base of "Free to Choose," traverse 40 yards right to the start of the route. "Consumption Dysfunction" is the left-hand of 2 routes on the formation.

Protection

7 bolts plus 2 open shuts (11kN Fixe Supershuts).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Red: Classically Liberal (5.10d)<br>
Yellow: Consumption Dysfunction (5.10a)

Red: Classically Liberal (5.10d) Yellow: Consumption Dysfunction (5.10a)

Alex on Consumption Dysfuction with Richard Duncan on belay.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Fienup
Santa Rosa Valley, CA

5.9+

Interestingly, there was evidence of previous climbing attempts on this route. Approximately 15 feet below the top of the formation were 2 bolts with hangers that were likely used as a top-rope anchor. These were removed and the route now extends all the way to the top. The bolts were located here mountainproject.com/v/matth… Oct 23, 2007

Chad Parker
Ventura, California

Such a sweet line thanks Matthew and Jesse. Apr 22, 2016