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Central Gully Rock Climbing

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Routes in Central Gully

	Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Spontaneous Order S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Straight, No Chaser T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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GPS:	34.58355, -119.26301 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Matthew Fienup on Jan 22, 2008
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure Details

Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.

Description

The Central Gully of the Fortress has a very different character than the Right-side Gully. Whereas the Right-side is massive and towering (with 3 huge peaks looming overhead) as well as steep and loose, the Central Gully is low-angle and comfortable. The Central Gully is actually quite pretty. The routes in the Central Gully are also more moderate in nature.

Getting There

The best way to access the Central Gully is to climb Footprints and then walk uphill to the base of Snickerdoodle or Blue In Green.

To move from the top of Snickerdoodle over to the base of Rational Expectations & Magali's Arete, one must rappel about 30 feet, step across a chimney and then scramble for a few feet. It is actually easier to rappel to the base of Snickerdoodle and then climb Blue In Green to reach the start of Rational Expectations & Magali's Arete.

For a detailed photo of the Central Gully that includes climbing and rappel routes, click here

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Central Gully

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 36 ● Blue In Green Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 28 ● Rational Expectations Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 25 ● Magali's Arete Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 24 ● Snickerdoodle Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 57 ● Spontaneous Order Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 32 ● Seven Steps to Heaven Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 7 ● Straight, No Chaser Trad