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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg and Matthew Fienup (January 2007)
Page Views: 790 total · 6/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up the 3rd class gully to the left of the base of "Permanent Income Hypothesis". At a tree in a gully, start to belay. Angle right up 4th class terrain until you are level with a large tree to the right. Proceed up the ridge (5.4) to a 2-bolt anchor.

This is a good approach to the anchors of "Capitalism and Freedom" or "Natural Rate of Unemployment" for those wishing to toprope those routes.

Location

APPROACH
From the base of Capitalism and Freedom, traverse left on a narrow ledge and climb a loose, class-3 gully. At the top of the gully, on a grassy ledge, turn right and scramble another 20 feet up to a circular depression in the rock next to a small tree.

DESCENT
Make 2 rappels down Capitalism & Freedom with a 60m rope.

Protection

A few cams and TCUs, to 2". 2 bolt anchor at the top (both 1/2 inch Rawl-style expansion bolts), i.e. the anchors of "Capitalism and Freedom".

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.4
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.4
Fun historical note:
This is the route that Romain and I used to access the top of the formation that is home to Capitalism & Freedom and Natural Rate of Unemployment. Romain led during the first ascent. After reaching the top, Romain hollered down that I was on belay. Shouldering a heavy pack which contained a rotary hammer drill, bolts, wall hammer, etc., I followed the pitch. When I arrived at the top of what is the most exposed formation in all of the Fortress, Romain was belaying me off his harness. Our anchor was his body which sat straddling the summit block (one leg in the right-side gulley, one in the central gulley). He was backed up by a sketchy cam placed some distance away and below him.

I have never drilled so quickly. Jun 2, 2014

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