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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg, April 27, 2008
Page Views: 2,069 total, 18/month
Shared By: Romain Wacziarg on Apr 27, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start to the right of the "Footprints" anchor, up slabs with 3 bolts and pass a prominent pine tree to its right. A #2 Camalot can be useful below the tree, and you can also sling the tree for added protection. A steep move (5.6) leads to easier climbing. Stay left at the top to exit directly onto Lunch Ledge. This is a varied pitch with interesting moves. It is a much better (and easier) way to access Lunch Ledge than ascending Snickerdoodle and rapping to the ledge.

Direct start variation: start in a gully about 10 yards to the right of the base of Footprints. Small gear and a bolt protect some low-fifth class moves to the start of the original route. This variation avoids the need to climb Footprints first. With this variation, the route is about 190 feet long.

WARNING: You cannot descend with one rappel (with a 60 meter rope) from Lunch Ledge to the base of Blue in Green. It is best to descent by rapping the gully to the right of Snickerdoodle, and then walk down to the anchors at the top of Footprints for the final rappel off the crag.

Location

This route links the top of "Footprints" with the ledge at the base of "Rational Expectations" and "Magali's Arete".

Protection

6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor (an additional bolt for the direct start). Optional #2 Camalot and a sling for the tree.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.6 PG13
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.6 PG13
Pitch length is about 40m, perhaps a little more. Apr 3, 2017
Jim H
Pasadena, CA
Jim H   Pasadena, CA
It is very easy to combine this route and any of the routes above it into one single pitch. In fact that's a better way to climb Mailgia's Arete. Jun 2, 2014
Trevor Roberson
Oxnard, California
Trevor Roberson   Oxnard, California
This was a fun climb, it was better than what I expected. Maybe didn't need as many bolts but it still is a nice line. Runners and a 70m a must if linking with footsteps. I ended up linking the top 2 pitches together because some weather was on it's way in. It ended up snowing! Feb 3, 2014
This is an excellent climb. I used an old-style 3.0 Camalot in a crack instead of slinging the tree. Lunch Ledge is a fantastic place to hang out. Jan 13, 2014
John Knight
  5.6
John Knight  
  5.6
Climbed this route yesterday w/Frank & Kelly. After reading some of the comments and looking at the topo, I was ready to give this zero stars. However, after climbing it, I was pleasantly surprised. I give it 2 stars! While it is possible to climb this and not clip any bolts (keep in mind it is also possible to solo 5.12), a new 5.6 leader will certainly appreciate the mix of bolts and trad protection. It is also quite reasonable to leave the rack in your car and only bring quick draws.
Jan 19, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  Easy 5th
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  Easy 5th
It is quite reasonable to lead this pitch without clipping any bolts. May 17, 2010
Its possible to link this route with Footprints with a 70m rope I had about 20' of rope to spare. Jul 16, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.6 PG13
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.6 PG13
I finally led this route yesterday, and I have to take my hat off to my friend Romain. What was originally envisioned as merely an approach pitch to other routes has proven to be a very worthy addition to the Fortress. This route is surprisingly sustained and boasts quality rock. Sep 24, 2008