Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (January 2008)
Page Views: 2,971 total · 22/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jan 21, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Fairly steep, exposed face climbing on nice, positive edges. Two small overhangs mix it up a little.

A fairly varied route considering the modest height. Excellent position from start to finish.

Location

APPROACH
(1) Climb Blue In Green to reach the "Lunch Ledge" at the base of Rational Expectations.

(2)Move from the top of Snickerdoodle over to the base of Rational Expectations by making one 30-foot rappel, stepping across the chimney and then scrambling for about 10 feet while still protected by the rappel rope. For more info, click here

DESCENT
Climb Seven Steps to the top and rappel to the base of Adaptive Expectations or rappel back to the start of the route and then rap into the Central Gully, making one more rappel to reach the creek.

Protection

4 lead bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), a single 1-2" piece for the roof. Bolted top anchor.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.7
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.7
I led this route for the first time last week--WOW! Great rock, great exposure. If only this route were another 40 feet long...

In any case, don't let your partner grab the lead on this one. Mar 14, 2008
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
 
Ryan Kosh   Los Angeles, CA
 
Last two bolts are a bit runout (especially the last). I'd recommend bringing a few stoppers to protect this route. I placed one in between bolts 3 and 4 and another between the fourth bolt and the anchor. One of the better routes in the area. Mar 25, 2009
Wei-Li
Los Angeles, CA
Wei-Li   Los Angeles, CA
Just led this 10/18/2014. There are NO bolts between the two overhangs. The moves aren't difficult but the exposure and run out bolts make the route a mental challenge. Oct 20, 2014
Chad Parker
Ventura, California
 
Chad Parker   Ventura, California
 
The exposure on this route is awesome for a 5.7 and then you get another super fun pitch above on Seven Steps To Heaven. You can link Rational Expectations and Seven Steps To Heaven together just make sure you back clean the first bolt on seven steps to avoid rope drag. Oct 13, 2016