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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (March 2008)
Page Views: 157 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 28, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The original route up the summit block atop Rational Expectations & Magali's Arete.

From the top of the those routes, traverse right around the corner to the north. Follow a finger and hand crack in a shallow dihedral. Where the vertical crack meets a horizontal hand crack, follow the hand crack left past a few solid jams. Turn the corner to the left and follow the arete (past one bolt) to the top.

Location

Starts on the north side of the summit block atop Rational Expectations and Magali's Arete. This is the summit block that separates the Right Side Gully from the Central Gully. For more info, click here

Approach and descend the same as for Seven Steps.

Protection

A few pieces (#1 TCU up to 2"), one lead bolt, bolted anchor with rappel rings.

Photos

Cori Tite
Sylmar, CA
 
Cori Tite   Sylmar, CA
 
This is a really fun climb although it's a bit on the short site. If this route was two times longer it would be an awesome climb. Instant exposure and fun moves; would rate it three stars if it weren't so short. Jun 2, 2014