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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (March 2008)
Page Views: 1,630 total, 14/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 10, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sustained climbing up a long arete.

Easier if you stay left of bolts 4-7; a full grade harder if you stay right, on the actual arete.

Location

From the fixed anchors atop Footprints, walk up the right side of the Central Gully for about 100 feet. Snickerdoodle is located on an obvious, rounded arete immediately left of a gaping gully/chimney. For more info, click here

Protection

8 lead bolts plus a 2 bolt top-anchor with rappel rings (eight 1/2" Rawls & two Fixe Triplex)
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The hole is a false-start. We ended up putting a bolt below this and another above this. No bolt has been removed. Jan 13, 2014
I tried to do this yesterday as the last climb of the day. I did not have all of the pages printed out and assumed from viewing it while rapping down the other climbs that it was around 5.7-5.8. I attempted the route rope solo, but gave up after the fourth bolt and then climbed up the poorly protected gully to the right.

It appears that a next to last bolt has been pulled out. I noticed a hole and a circular area where a bolt may have been. Anyone know about the missing bolt? Jan 12, 2014
Jeff Fiore  
5.9
Led it straight up the bold line/on the arete, and I think 5.9 is the right grade here. There was really only one move that gave me pause, but the bolts (beautiful hardware and installation btw) are close enough that it was never too scary. If anything the lichens were the one element that made me take extra care with my footwork - this route will get less dicey after more traffic.

Weather note: Climbed this route today on our way home from LA for Thanksgiving and it was COLD (windy and in the shade b/t 1 and 2 p.m.). Left north on 33 and there was snow over the summit. Nov 28, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Ryan, I tend to agree with you on the grade. I climbed this route again on the 20th (admittedly on TR), and I thought that the route felt stout for 5.9. I thought the route had actually cleaned up a bit, though. Mar 25, 2009
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a PG13
Ryan Kosh   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a PG13
Did some holds break off on this? The route still seems a bit loose and some of the moves felt a full grade more difficult than 5.9 to me. Mar 25, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Today, I led this route for the first time. I must say, I respectfully disagree with my friend Romain--the route felt stout even for 5.9. Also, there is BIG fall potential below the 4th and 8th bolts on climbing as hard as 5.6/5.7. It would be very bad to fall below the 4th bolt--you'd get hurt. It would be very exciting to fall below the 8th bolt--there's about 18 feet of air between you and a taught rope.

This is not a route to push yourself on. It's a VERY aesthetic line though... Apr 1, 2008