All Locations > California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Fortress > Central Gully

Straight, No Chaser

Name: Straight, No Chaser
Rating: 2.6

5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Central Gully

	Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Spontaneous Order S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Straight, No Chaser T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Romain Wacziarg and Matthew Fienup, December 2008
Page Views:	2,104 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Romain Wacziarg on Dec 5, 2008
Admins:	andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Your Star Rating:

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick

-none-

Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure Details

Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.

Description

This is a sustained route. The first half goes up a steep part of the wall with small holds. Two distinct cruxes are found passing the third and fourth bolts (5.10c). On the second half, the angle eases up a bit and 5.9 climbing up a right-slanting hand crack leads to two anchor bolts on the right side of the summit triangle. To descend, rappel off to the climber's right, into the central gully.

Location

This route is the only one currently on the left side of the Central Gully. From the rappel bolts at the top of "Footprints", walk left along a ledge for about 20 yards to the base of a triangular flatiron. A line of bolts will be visible in the center of the formation.