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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg and Matthew Fienup, December 2008
Page Views: 1,224 total, 11/month
Shared By: Romain Wacziarg on Dec 5, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a sustained route. The first half goes up a steep part of the wall with small holds. Two distinct cruxes are found passing the third and fourth bolts (5.10c). On the second half, the angle eases up a bit and 5.9 climbing up a right-slanting hand crack leads to two anchor bolts on the right side of the summit triangle. To descend, rappel off to the climber's right, into the central gully.

Location

This route is the only one currently on the left side of the Central Gully. From the rappel bolts at the top of "Footprints", walk left along a ledge for about 20 yards to the base of a triangular flatiron. A line of bolts will be visible in the center of the formation.

Protection

7 bolts for the bottom portion (all 1/2" Rawls), 3-4 small cams to protect the crack at the top of the route. Two rappel anchors at the top.

Photos

staem  
This is second to only Natural Rate of Unemployment. Same style up the center of the face. A bit more dirty but so what. climb it and then post Apr 5, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I, for one, applaud the selfless bolting efforts of Matt and Romain. Thanks for your hard work and vision regarding this oft-overlooked area. I also hope that no one "dies on rappel".

Happy climbing... Nov 7, 2009
nomore
  5.10- PG13
nomore  
  5.10- PG13
this climb was cool. it would have been alot cooler if whoever bolted it left the bolting to those who could bolt on lead. those who bolt on rappel should die on rappel! May 23, 2009