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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Matthew Fienup, Nicole Clancy & Kathleen Wathan (May 2010)
Page Views: 99 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jun 3, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climbs the left-hand side of the summit block above Rational Expectations and Magali's Arete. This route is an easier alternate to Seven Steps, which is located on the right-hand side of the block.

The summit is perhaps the coolest vantage point in the entire Fortress area.

Location

Climbs the left-hand side of the summit block atop Rational Expectations and Magali's Arete. This is the summit block that separates the Right Side Gully from the Central Gully. For more info, click here

APPROACH
Climb either Rational Expectations or Magali's Arete to access the start of Tee it Up.

DESCENT
Descend by rappelling from rings/chains atop the route. It is possible to rappel west to the base of Adaptive Expectations or east into the Central Gully. When rappelling back into the Central Gully, there are two options. If you rappel to the top of Rational Expectations, it will take 3 more raps to reach the creek. If you rappel to the top of Snickerdoodle, it will take 2 more raps to reach the creek (although ropes have been known to get stuck when pulling from Snickerdoodle).

Protection

Bolts (1/2" Rawls), 2 bolt anchor with rappel rings (Fixe Triplex bolts)

Photos

Wei-Li
Los Angeles, CA
  5.9- R
Wei-Li   Los Angeles, CA
  5.9- R
Is the beta photo accurate? I went up this on 10/18/2014 and there were no bolts in sight after the first clip. I went under the roof and had to maneuver my way to Seven Steps to Heaven to put in a second draw before attempting the roof move. The climb wasn't hard but the exposure and lack of protection makes it quite a bit harder than 5.7+. Oct 20, 2014