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Routes in Central Gully

Blue In Green S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Footprints S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Helicopter Effect T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magali's Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objectivist Tendencies T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rational Expectations S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seven Steps to Heaven S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snickerdoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spontaneous Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Straight, No Chaser T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (March 2008)
Page Views: 1,531 total, 13/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 28, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climbs the arete on the right side of the block that is also home to Rational Expectations. This route is longer and significantly more difficult than Rational Expectations.

Location

Approach and descend the same as for Rational Expectations.

Blue In Green now provides convenient access to the base of this route.

Protection

5 bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), 2 bolt anchor with chains. 2" piece recommended.
John Knight
  5.8
John Knight  
  5.8
A short, fun route. Gave it 2 stars. We choose to climb "Magali's" instead of the left route ("Rational Expectations") since it looked a bit more challenging and more interesting. Earlier the same day I previously led PIH (5.9) and thought "Magali's" would be a walk in the park. However, I found "Magali's" to be more mentally engaging than PIH. I also think the rating is more like 5.8 instead of 5.7. Maybe some holds broke off? Hard to know. Sandstone evolves a bit with use. Be careful! There is a loose plate on the left side of the arete (about 2/3 of the way up) that flexes with even a gentle pull. I didn't feel like I need the 2" piece recommended in the description but you can certainly supplement with gear if you feel you need it.

Note - There's a lot of loose blocks in and near the climb. Some are small and some are HUGE. Be super careful while climbing and rapping the route. Jan 19, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Easily linked with Seven Steps with minimal rope drag. May 17, 2010