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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Pete Gulyash, Dwight Kroll
Page Views: 5,122 total, 25/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start with slab but good edges, throw for the big rail, dance your way up onto said rail and reeeeeach for your next holds. Traverse out right and then sail upward into the chimney-like feature.

Protection

3 bolts, but you'll want pro for the top part, .75-2" if you are leading it.
Awesome route, but I encountered a very active hornet's nest in the trough 15-20' above the last bolt. Not awesome! It was possible to avoid it via a sketchy traverse out right to the anchors of 60 seconds (not hard, but very dirty; protected by a BD #2 in the middle).

PS: I agree with the others that this is not 10b by any standard I'm used to. Very crimpy, and with some awkward moves. Aug 8, 2017
C Brooks
Fresno, CA
 
C Brooks   Fresno, CA
 
5.10b? Hahahahaha! I am a middle aged non-hardman, but there is not way this is a 5.10b. Steller A++++ fun however Jan 16, 2017
Floyd Hayes
5.10d
Floyd Hayes  
5.10d
5.10b?!? Yeah, right. I tried leading it onsight and gave up after a couple of whippers, then I top-roped it. Okay, I wasn't in the best of shape at the time, but it was a lot harder than I expected for 5.10b. And why were the bolts placed so far to the right? With the rope extending down and out below the first bolt, when you fall and pendulum to the right it's easy to flip backward over it--as I did. Mar 18, 2013
vincent lopez
  5.10b
vincent lopez  
  5.10b
Superb route !! completely safe but scary none-the-less after the second bolt . bring a red alien for protecting the rest of the route above the third bolt.... very nice i can't wait to show my friends from L.A. who say that there must be no decent climbing north of Santa Barbara .... Sep 18, 2005
Scott Bullock
  5.10b
Scott Bullock  
  5.10b
This is a great climb top rope or leading. It is actually an easier climb leading because the rope pulls you to the right when top roping. The second and third bolts are about 10-12 feet apart so when clipping the third bolt your waist is about 7 feet above the 2nd bolt so you are looking at a 14 foot fall if you pitch while clipping. However you are more likely to fall on the traverse while only 2-3 feet above the 2nd bolt. In either event you will not even come close to the ground so it is a safe fall. Put it this way if you can get to the third bolt you are not going to fall.

The crux is climbing into the trough above the third bolt, the holds are odd and the feet are thin. Everybody works out their own sus here. Feb 12, 2004
Jad Josey  
 
This is definitely one of the best routes on Cracked Wall. A test-piece lead for aspiring 5.10 leaders. You should be confident at the grade, as there is some serious bad-fall potential above the second bolt. Look for hidden (but positive) edges above the second bolt. After the third clip from a good stance, grab the strange hold and go (I often find myself readjusting on the hold, but believe me: it doesn't get miraculously better). The top is a bit run-out, but very easy. A medium cam is great to protect. Enjoy one of the best climbs in the area. Jan 29, 2004
Chris Nosti
  5.10b
Chris Nosti  
  5.10b
This is as classic as you can get for Bishop's Peak, whether thats a good thing or not. Anyway, the first two bolts are straight forward enough but you need to search for the two edges up high that will alloy you to traverse up and right after the second bolt. Then, once you have clipped that third bolt, it's pretty much smooth sailing on up through the groove. I usually bring a number one camalot and a red alien to protect the rest of the climb. And if you don't feel like leading you can always walk around the back and set up the top rope (it's the first set of anchors you will find). Jan 22, 2004