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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Boss Direct S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ken Klis
Page Views: 1,449 total · 8/month
Shared By: Scott Bullock on Jun 6, 2003
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Same start as Civilized Evil. Hike up to the first bolt of CE then step out right on small holds. The second bolt is very close by and is used to protect the crux which consists of a hard crank on a sharp thin left hand moving up to a shallow pocket for the right. It is a bit run out to the third bolt but the climbing is only 5.8ish the rest of the way. Ken has a vision of taking this route all the way over the red roof above (I hope that wasn't a secret!)


3 bolts. Use Civilized Evil anchors.


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Ken and I finished the extension to the lower part of this route by going through the fairly difficult roof sequence and continuing up past a couple bolts to the anchors. Anyone who has completed the route should help with solidifying the rating , which I think is subjective at this point, might be as "easy" as 11b and probably not 11d! I could care less about the rating as much as I like to make sure climbers have a idea about the risks and difficulty before perhaps getting over their heads! Or busting their noodle! Happy climbing! Splitter not spliiter. Apr 18, 2005
Spiiter/Splitter/Skitter, etc.

Dude, there's only like 3 people in the whole County that climb 5.11a (or harder). Maybe you should just call them directly & have them check it out. The rest of us mortals will just be content to watch. Apr 19, 2005
Ken Klis  
Climb past 2 bolts just right of Civilized Evil, at about .11a, then relatively easy ground to 3rd bolt, continue up and right, approaching the 4th bolt (right of Dirty Rat's Crack)with medium cams protecting moderate climbing, clip 4th bolt either from left or straight up (being more sustained)on the overhanging roof. Dynamic moves over roof, clip 5th and last bolt from stance above lip and then thin pro on the .10a thin crack to the anchors. Very loose flakes above anchors, keep out.

Not an R by any means, and Jeff Davis seconded the F.A. Feb 21, 2006
David Gealy
Berkeley, California
David Gealy   Berkeley, California
New stronger climbers are getting on these things, thanks Ken for putting it up and extending it through the roof! It went at 11b for me, but that's because I had tall-man's beta. pulling the actual roof was a committing mantle, but nothing dynamic. I almost find the lower "11a" crux harder. Oct 22, 2012
Ken Klis  
11.d is fair if you lead the roof without beta, but it is one of those routes that gets easier with beta or rehearsal.

The lower move has a key right foot that has become slick like a boulderer's lexicon. Oct 23, 2012

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