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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Boss Direct S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Tim Sorenson, Pete Gulyash and friends
Page Views: 3,080 total · 18/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jan 11, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

50 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Begin at a large boulder at the base of the cliff, underneath a prominent right-facing corner. Climb up, clip a single bolt, and move left (crux). Fiddle in some gear and continue up to reach corner system. Great protection from here with nuts or TCUs. Shares anchor with Dirty Rat's Crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

1 bolt, a few nuts & TCUs.


Scott Bullock
Scott Bullock  
This is an amazing climb and a very challenging lead for the grade. The crux is being willing to climb past the first bolt which is about 25' otd. Anyway once you clip the one and only bolt traverse out left into the pinkish corner the holds are fairly obvious except for a hidden jug at arms reach. Reach high and your had will land in a nice horizontal hadn crack. Place a nut #7 or a #2 or #3 Metolius tcu here. Continue on up the corner where it gets a bit physical - small to medium cams protect you to the anchors above a small roof. The grunting and groaning is well worth it and you will have a nice badge since this route is seldom led! Jan 18, 2004
Nick Haupt
Nick Haupt  
A great route, you can lessen the runout to the gear placements after the first bolt by fishing in a number six nut in a small slot about five feet directly above the first bolt. Jan 21, 2004
Pablo Paster
Pablo Paster  
This is a great route but there is no way that it deserves a 5.10 rating. Camel and Llama are 5.10, this is not. Jan 25, 2004
vincent lopez
vincent lopez  
another vote for this being easier that 5.10 . there are some stiff 5.10's on bishops peak so i think this qualifies as a 5.9 or maybe 9+ . i'm also not really sure why this route wouldn't be lead much as mentioned by another poster seeing as this route has the closest thing resembling a bomber crack for pro anywhere on BP. good route ..... watch out for the tree branch on the way down.... Sep 18, 2005
ashoemak Shoemaker
Erie, CO
ashoemak Shoemaker   Erie, CO
Great route! Lead it this morning for the first time and got a #2 TCU into the big jug to lessen the run-out up to the corner. I also think this felt more like a 5.9. Mar 6, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
5.9?? Maybe a Gunks 5.9! Like Scott Bullock indicated challenging for the grade. Sep 22, 2015
You know that wiggly hold that never actually comes loose? It finally came out. Route's a 5.6 now. (It's not, it doesn't really affect anything) Apr 16, 2016

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