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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tim Sorenson & Pete Gulyash, 1981
Page Views: 1,056 total, 7/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the right edge of the Cracked Wall, just left of Lama and a large oak tree, directly under 3 closely-spaced bolts. The opening moves are just like Lama, only a full grade harder. A VERY thin start leads past microsized, shallow finger pockets. The crux comes between the second and third bolts, surmounting a slabby bulge. Crank through (thank you!), and continue on easier terrain to a scoop and 4th bolt. From here, veer left and up to a 5th bolt, following the line of least resistance.

Protection

5 bolts, a light rack, and some brass balls (or ovaries).

Photos

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After several short, yanking falls over several days I got the crux and finished the route, hence the name, (Crank You, Thank You). Four bolts were enough. Thats all I remember, except that Pete Gulyash could boulder B1 in slow motion all day long, and that I could only stay on 5.11- for about 10 seconds before falling off. Feb 12, 2005
3 bolts on original route, 2 at start and one way up high and left through some runout danger (never seen this led).

Gulash added the 3rd bolt about 1990, making the bottom crux well-protected.

Most often climbed straight up after 3-bolt start toward 4 modern bolts and 5.11 roof, with Slater's Guide calling this Crankin'.

Variation start is right side of first 3 bolts at 5.11+.



Oct 17, 2004