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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Aaron Stireman, Aaron Formella, Ken Klis
Page Views: 1,960 total, 44/month
Shared By: Serial Crusher on Mar 21, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

If you love strong pocket moves, sustained crimping, and sporty runouts, then this climb is not to be missed.

Clip Bolt 1 from directly underneath, and move out right and up through a series of shallow one and two finger pockets over a bulge (.11d). Then head left through thin, technical moves, passing bolt 2 (.11a). After that, enjoy a sustained edging sequence that follows small crimps and incuts to the top, while passing a unique looking crystal out left (.10d).

Since its a slabby face, a big reach or a toprope can help to tame the beast. But for the brave soul who climbs onsight, .12a is fair.

Location

Between Mouse Maze and Crankin' and just above the bottom of Dirty Rat's Crack.

Start is directly underneath bolt 1 until you are standing in a small but positive hueco to clip, although it is possible to do a 10c variation to this route by staying left of the bolt line.

Finishes out a unique exit to the right of Mouse Maze using more shallow pockets, and a sloping undercling.

Protection

6 Draws. C4 .5, and a Yellow/Green Alien for the roof

Photos

Ben Parsons
  5.11+
Ben Parsons  
  5.11+
Can confirm; bulge feels pretty damn vert. Jun 8, 2016
Serial Crusher
A house
 
Serial Crusher   A house
 
It almost appears low angle in the videos, but pulling over that bulge definitely feels vertical. Mar 30, 2014
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
Hah yeah I can put that up for you. Mar 24, 2014
Where's the little whipper I took? That's what we want to see haha Mar 24, 2014
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
vimeo.com/89889378 Mar 24, 2014