Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Aaron Stireman, Aaron Formella, Ken Klis
Page Views: 2,138 total · 36/month
Shared By: Serial Crusher on Mar 21, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

If you love strong pocket moves, sustained crimping, and sporty runouts, then this climb is not to be missed.

Clip Bolt 1 from directly underneath, and move out right and up through a series of shallow one and two finger pockets over a bulge (.11d). Then head left through thin, technical moves, passing bolt 2 (.11a). After that, enjoy a sustained edging sequence that follows small crimps and incuts to the top, while passing a unique looking crystal out left (.10d).

Since its a slabby face, a big reach or a toprope can help to tame the beast. But for the brave soul who climbs onsight, .12a is fair.

Location

Between Mouse Maze and Crankin' and just above the bottom of Dirty Rat's Crack.

Start is directly underneath bolt 1 until you are standing in a small but positive hueco to clip, although it is possible to do a 10c variation to this route by staying left of the bolt line.

Finishes out a unique exit to the right of Mouse Maze using more shallow pockets, and a sloping undercling.

Protection

6 Draws. C4 .5, and a Yellow/Green Alien for the roof

Photos

Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
vimeo.com/89889378 Mar 24, 2014
Where's the little whipper I took? That's what we want to see haha Mar 24, 2014
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
Hah yeah I can put that up for you. Mar 24, 2014
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
Serial Crusher
A house
  5.12a
Serial Crusher   A house
  5.12a
It almost appears low angle in the videos, but pulling over that bulge definitely feels vertical. Mar 30, 2014
Ben Parsons
San Luis Obispo, CA
  5.11+
Ben Parsons   San Luis Obispo, CA
  5.11+
Can confirm; bulge feels pretty damn vert. Jun 8, 2016