Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Aaron Stireman, Aaron Formella, Ken Klis|
|Page Views:||2,016 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Serial Crusher on Mar 21, 2014|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionIf you love strong pocket moves, sustained crimping, and sporty runouts, then this climb is not to be missed.
Clip Bolt 1 from directly underneath, and move out right and up through a series of shallow one and two finger pockets over a bulge (.11d). Then head left through thin, technical moves, passing bolt 2 (.11a). After that, enjoy a sustained edging sequence that follows small crimps and incuts to the top, while passing a unique looking crystal out left (.10d).
Since its a slabby face, a big reach or a toprope can help to tame the beast. But for the brave soul who climbs onsight, .12a is fair.
LocationBetween Mouse Maze and Crankin' and just above the bottom of Dirty Rat's Crack.
Start is directly underneath bolt 1 until you are standing in a small but positive hueco to clip, although it is possible to do a 10c variation to this route by staying left of the bolt line.
Finishes out a unique exit to the right of Mouse Maze using more shallow pockets, and a sloping undercling.