Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
Routes in Cracked Wall
|2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Aaron Stireman, Aaron Formella, Ken Klis|
|Page Views:||1,960 total, 44/month|
|Shared By:||Serial Crusher on Mar 21, 2014|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionIf you love strong pocket moves, sustained crimping, and sporty runouts, then this climb is not to be missed.
Clip Bolt 1 from directly underneath, and move out right and up through a series of shallow one and two finger pockets over a bulge (.11d). Then head left through thin, technical moves, passing bolt 2 (.11a). After that, enjoy a sustained edging sequence that follows small crimps and incuts to the top, while passing a unique looking crystal out left (.10d).
Since its a slabby face, a big reach or a toprope can help to tame the beast. But for the brave soul who climbs onsight, .12a is fair.
LocationBetween Mouse Maze and Crankin' and just above the bottom of Dirty Rat's Crack.
Start is directly underneath bolt 1 until you are standing in a small but positive hueco to clip, although it is possible to do a 10c variation to this route by staying left of the bolt line.
Finishes out a unique exit to the right of Mouse Maze using more shallow pockets, and a sloping undercling.