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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Boss Direct S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Aaron Stireman, Aaron Formella, Ken Klis
Page Views: 2,063 total · 40/month
Shared By: Serial Crusher on Mar 21, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

If you love strong pocket moves, sustained crimping, and sporty runouts, then this climb is not to be missed.

Clip Bolt 1 from directly underneath, and move out right and up through a series of shallow one and two finger pockets over a bulge (.11d). Then head left through thin, technical moves, passing bolt 2 (.11a). After that, enjoy a sustained edging sequence that follows small crimps and incuts to the top, while passing a unique looking crystal out left (.10d).

Since its a slabby face, a big reach or a toprope can help to tame the beast. But for the brave soul who climbs onsight, .12a is fair.

Location [Suggest Change]

Between Mouse Maze and Crankin' and just above the bottom of Dirty Rat's Crack.

Start is directly underneath bolt 1 until you are standing in a small but positive hueco to clip, although it is possible to do a 10c variation to this route by staying left of the bolt line.

Finishes out a unique exit to the right of Mouse Maze using more shallow pockets, and a sloping undercling.

Protection [Suggest Change]

6 Draws. C4 .5, and a Yellow/Green Alien for the roof

Photos

Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
vimeo.com/89889378 Mar 24, 2014
Where's the little whipper I took? That's what we want to see haha Mar 24, 2014
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
Hah yeah I can put that up for you. Mar 24, 2014
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
Serial Crusher
A house
 
Serial Crusher   A house
 
It almost appears low angle in the videos, but pulling over that bulge definitely feels vertical. Mar 30, 2014
Ben Parsons
  5.11+
Ben Parsons  
  5.11+
Can confirm; bulge feels pretty damn vert. Jun 8, 2016

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