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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: John Knight
Page Views: 3,219 total, 29/month
Shared By: Matthew Geyer on Oct 4, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

In words of Knight himself, "Step up into Dirty Rat’s Crack and look up and right after about 10’ up the crack. Step up to a high clip out of the Dirty Rat’s Crack and make the first of two crux moves into the seam above. Work your way left through the maze as you clip two more bolts. Look for the big 'mouse hole' left of the 3rd bolt. ...reach high into big jugs as you move right. Crouch under the roof as you put in a cam. Work your feet up high and step up to place a gold Alien in the horizontal seam above the roof....pull the roof, clip the last bolt and...then chains."

Location

The line climbs above Dead Rat's and left of Crank You, Thank You

Protection

4 bolts and one small cam, maybe 2
Lana dude  
 
Enjoyable. Got 2 small cams (<0.5") in before first bolt and another solid cam (2")just below roof. Felt comfortable with protection. Nice Line! Sep 3, 2013
John Knight
  5.9 PG13
John Knight  
  5.9 PG13
It would be a bummer of a fall if you blew it clipping the first bolt. Best to place a piece at your feet, clip the bolt then clean the piece to reduce rope drag. Oct 15, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.9 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9 PG13
The first bolt is a bit high. At 5'10" I had to make a tricky move to reach it, so to be safe I placed a piece in a crack near my feet. Oct 13, 2011
John Knight
  5.9 PG13
John Knight  
  5.9 PG13
Ryan,

Re: bolts being behind the boulder on the MM anchor.

I did consider moving them to the front but decided it was safer for people that wanted to set up a TR to have them at the back. Definitely a good point that people need a cordellete or long slings to set up. You definitely don't want your rope rubbing over the boulder. I wouldn't suggest slinging the boulder for a TR. It doesn't appear to be attached to the rest of the rock.

Glad you liked the route.

John Jun 3, 2011
Placed a red #1 Camalot C4 in the horizontal below the roof, but didn't place another piece after pulling onto the ledge. Just stood up and clipped the bolt, as I felt pretty secure on the ledge. Jun 3, 2011
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.9- PG13
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.9- PG13
Fun lead. The entire route from the bottom to the mouse hole to the roof is great. I wish the bolts at the top were below the boulder instead of above/behind it. If you're going to set up a top rope, you are going to need at least a 25' cordelette, some slings to extend your setup, or just sling the boulder itself and forget about using the bolts (a 20' line works great for this). Sure you could just use the bomber bolts with a couple of draws...but I'd rather have my anchor line rubbing against that boulder slightly than my rope on a TR system. Just something to consider. May 23, 2011
Bryan Carroll
Los Osos, CA
Bryan Carroll   Los Osos, CA
This is an awesome climb, thanks for the route! You probably dont remeber but I was the kid who you saw climbing with Kelly at Cracked Wall. Apr 16, 2010
John Knight
  5.9 PG13
John Knight  
  5.9 PG13
The bolts on this route have been re-installed. Nov 24, 2009
ashoemak Shoemaker
Erie, CO
 
ashoemak Shoemaker   Erie, CO
 
Why were the bolts chopped? I hope they will be put back up, I thought this was a good climb. Oct 2, 2009