Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: David James & Jack Waeschle 7/21/22 (Bolted by Stireman)
Page Views: 719 total · 31/month
Shared By: David James on Jul 22, 2022
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Another few move wonder at cracked wall?! You betcha!

This follows the bolt line just left of Civilized Evil and finishes through the Love in an Elevator roof. 

Climb directly up the bolts. 3 bolts of 5.11 to 5.12- climbing links you into Love in an Elevator. 

The crux is with bolt two at your waist, going for a jug potato chip in the bulge above you. The longer your reach the easier this move becomes, but with creative beta it still goes at 11 or so for the average human. 

I believe we are the first to send this, but if someone else has climbed this line let me know and I'll give credit where credit is due. 

You can escape right at bolt two for an 11a alternate start to Love in an Elevator (Skinny Foreign and Unavailable - Stireman(?) )

Location Suggest change

Just left of Civilized evil. The first two bolts are pretty close together for Bishop and traverse to the right.

Protection Suggest change

6-7 draws, a BD .5 and .4 cam for the roof up top, and a double length sling to extend the .5 placement, you'll regret not bringing it.

Photos

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