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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ken Klis & Joe Ramos
Page Views: 1,351 total, 9/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Towards the left side of Cracked Wall, locate the first bolt about 15' off the ground. [For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']. Climb up steep face past 2 more bolts, with a crux coming between the bolts 2 and 3. Continue straight up on easier terrain, passing two more bolts. Trend left into the top "notch" of Camel and to the Camel anchor.

Protection

5 bolts + a light rack for the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.10d
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.10d
All, except very tall people, will have to make a committing move to clip the first bolt. Consider pre-placing the draw or even pre-clipping it. Around the first bolt, this route has one of the more cryptic, tricky sequences at cracked wall. If you like puzzles you will enjoy this. Apr 10, 2017
Tim Maas
Isla Vista, California
Tim Maas   Isla Vista, California
Second bolt is an old SMC hangar. Not one of the recalled hangars but still. Took a fall on lead and it held though. And Aaron, yea I'm 6'2" and had to whip my draw to clip the first bolt. 6 days ago
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
A missing hold and a harder route than before Jul 7, 2015
In the description of the climb it says, "[For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']."

This "old, rusty bolt" has been replaced with a new, shiny bolt so don't look for the old rusty bolt.

Side Note - Basically, this climb is a direct start variation of No Permit Required. For some reason, people started calling it Burn Permit and the name (sort of) stuck. I guess it's easier to call it Burn Permit than the Direct Start Variation of New Permit Required.

I thought the direct start was a grade harder than the original start (clip the new, shiny bolt and move left). Jan 21, 2012
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
(priapism is the first sign of spinal injury) but there is a pretty funny backstory. May 9, 2011
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
Whatever I'm climbing that day is my favorite : ) May 9, 2011
Regarding User Name Priapism, this is a persistent, usually painful, erection that lasts for more than four hours and occurs without sexual stimulation.

Isn't this normal?

What is your favorite route ever? May 4, 2011
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
My second favorite route...ever. Apr 28, 2011
Jim Reynolds
  5.10c
Jim Reynolds  
  5.10c
I love the start of this climb as opposed to 'No Permit Required.' Makes it a much more consistantly difficult climb. I found a brilliant undercling to get past the initial section. Apr 11, 2011