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Burn Permit

5.10d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 27 votes
FA: Ken Klis & Joe Ramos
California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Cracked Wall

Description

Towards the left side of Cracked Wall, locate the first bolt about 15' off the ground. [For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']. Climb up steep face past 2 more bolts, with a crux coming between the bolts 2 and 3. Continue straight up on easier terrain, passing two more bolts. Trend left into the top "notch" of Camel and to the Camel anchor.

Protection

5 bolts + a light rack for the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown climber after getting through the crux on burn permit
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber after getting through the crux on burn permit

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Reynolds
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I love the start of this climb as opposed to 'No Permit Required.' Makes it a much more consistantly difficult climb. I found a brilliant undercling to get past the initial section. Apr 11, 2011
Serial Crusher
A house
[Hide Comment] My second favorite route...ever. Apr 28, 2011
Ken Klis
Arroyo Grande, CA
[Hide Comment] Regarding User Name Priapism, this is a persistent, usually painful, erection that lasts for more than four hours and occurs without sexual stimulation.

Isn't this normal?

What is your favorite route ever? May 4, 2011
Serial Crusher
A house
[Hide Comment] Whatever I'm climbing that day is my favorite : ) May 9, 2011
Serial Crusher
A house
[Hide Comment] (priapism is the first sign of spinal injury) but there is a pretty funny backstory. May 9, 2011
John Knight
Sedona
[Hide Comment] In the description of the climb it says, "[For reference, an old, rusty bolt (No Permit Required) is just up and right about 3' of the first bolt, left of the 'eyebrow']."

This "old, rusty bolt" has been replaced with a new, shiny bolt so don't look for the old rusty bolt.

Side Note - Basically, this climb is a direct start variation of No Permit Required. For some reason, people started calling it Burn Permit and the name (sort of) stuck. I guess it's easier to call it Burn Permit than the Direct Start Variation of New Permit Required.

I thought the direct start was a grade harder than the original start (clip the new, shiny bolt and move left). Jan 21, 2012
Serial Crusher
A house
[Hide Comment] A missing hold and a harder route than before Jul 7, 2015
Aaron Formella
[Hide Comment] All, except very tall people, will have to make a committing move to clip the first bolt. Consider pre-placing the draw or even pre-clipping it. Around the first bolt, this route has one of the more cryptic, tricky sequences at cracked wall. If you like puzzles you will enjoy this. Apr 10, 2017
Sage Maas
Ventura, CA
[Hide Comment] Second bolt is an old SMC hangar. Not one of the recalled hangars but still. Took a fall on lead and it held though. And Aaron, yea I'm 6'2" and had to whip my draw to clip the first bolt. Dec 10, 2017
Dustin Stephens
  5.11
[Hide Comment] There is a pretty hard move at the bottom these days, not the same as "bitd" haha Nov 26, 2022