Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Boss Direct S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Erik Erikson
Page Views: 3,345 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ken Klis on Jan 11, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The "classic" line on cracked wall. Just to the right of 60-seconds follow up the shield to the "bung-hole" mono and traverse onto the tiger stripes. Finish at either 60-seconds or Only Way anchors.

Protection

4 bolts and one #2 WC rock b/w the second and third bolts if you like

Photos

You can easily slot a small DMM offset nut into the bottom of the constriction 3-4 feet above the second bolt without blocking the finger lock. (Even if you did block it, this move is not the crux.) I took a pretty good whip on it too, so I can confirm that it holds and is also a good idea if you're not solid on this route. Aug 8, 2017
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.11b
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.11b
It appears to be spider nesting season. There's a big f***ing spider living in the infamous mono. Probably the cliff should be closed for the remainder of the season, until the spiderlings fledge the nest. May 11, 2017
I disagree with Richard... if you use a nut it makes the awesome fingerlock less bomer and the move up to the next bolt is definately not 5.11... as long as your belayer is on top of things you shouldn't fall that far onto the second bolt (though i've never fallen on that move) Oct 31, 2011
Unless you're solid at the grade, bring a small nut to slot in a constriction after the second bolt. The "bung-hole" mono is a very insecure and strange hold. Sep 15, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
From the last bolt, there is actually some quite good 5.7ish climbing to the 60 Seconds anchor. If you don't want to climb Western Airlines, you can climb up the first half of 60 Seconds, then cut out right (you will be directly across from the last bolt on WA) and continue as above. Sep 17, 2005
Chris Nosti
  5.11b
Chris Nosti  
  5.11b
If you want to finish at the 60 Seconds anchor, bring a few larger pieces to 3.5" Jan 23, 2004

More About Western Airlines

Printer-Friendly Guide