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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Dwight Kroll and Anders
Page Views: 2,506 total, 15/month
Shared By: Chris Nosti on Jan 20, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

The route starts on the left side of the dark water marks and tiger stripes located in the center of cracked wall. It follows the somewhat odd shaped crack up the wall and then traverses left to the anchors once the wall stops overhanging. It is a fun lead and the re-bolting now offers the possibility of top roping both Curly's Shuffle and Western Airlines.

Protection

The route was recently rebolted by Joe and Ken so it goes all sport now. It's a good lead and is very well protected. There are six bolts and the anchors at the top also include biners that hang from the chains so you can just clip and lower. (check for wear first)

Photos

Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
Anchor updated Oct 20, 2015
Ken Klis
  5.10c
Ken Klis  
  5.10c
I'll try to be brief:

Only Way to Fly was a one bolt climb that, after grabbing the jug-crack, veered up and right on a ramp toward the Civilized Evil belay station. The bolt was in the black streak and made for an exciting move to the jug-crack.

A variation finish and bolt was added in the '80's, going up from the ramp at 5.10+ and runout somewhat.

A second variation, some call a new route with a shared start, was added in 2002. It climbs almost straight up, finishing at a bolted station. This is what most people erroneously call Only Way to Fly. Slater's guide tried to end the confusion by calling it Fly Away which never stuck. This line accounts for 4 bolts and is a sport climb.

The original 1-bolt-start had a 3/8" or 1/2" bolt that snapped upon inspection. It was also in the poor quality black rock on the right side of the moves. This fractured rock continues to break, not ideal for bolt placements. Some key holds have broken off in the black rock too, adding to the grade somewhat. 2 bolts were added at the start to replace the one original bolt -- being over to the left it kind of changed things some.


Jan 26, 2013
Well, it was a one bolt climb and maybe my best climbing day (moment) ever. I remember launching out and being apprehensive about not being a particularly good climber, but it was coming together and I was too scared to fall after I launched out there. "Jesus Bob" and I worked at putting in the first 3/4" hand drilled bolt. However being young and antsy, I shortly conscripted my cluless next door apartment neighbor into belaying me (even though Anders never climbed (or belayed before)), but he seemed intelligent, sincere and responsible...and would probably call the authorities when I really got hurt.

I'm glad the route is now safer, however it sounds like there is an alternate to this line.

Kind'a don't want to go back there cuz it was another era and another time...(like my bitch'in girlfriend at that time would be 55 years+ today, yikes!) but sounds like Bishop Peak still captures the imaginition of you youngsters who know that they won the cosmic lottery.

So, go forth; climb and procreate!...(or at least pratice)....dwight Nov 30, 2012
Seconding Dave's comment, this was a one bolt climb.

If the other bolts are on a different route (as Kristin suggests), this route description should be edited. It needs to be edited anyway because you shouldn't "just clip and lower" off of the any part of the existing anchor but instead either make an anchor and lower off of your own carabiners or rappel off so that you minimize wear on the anchor. Oct 18, 2011
vincent lopez
  5.10b
vincent lopez  
  5.10b
generous bolts , no bats , good pulling, makes for one enjoyable route ... Sep 27, 2005
Kristin McNamara
SLO, CA
  5.10c
Kristin McNamara   SLO, CA
  5.10c
Gosh, I hope it's not permanent. I love that climb. Aug 9, 2005
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
While leading this route earlier today, I had an interesting encounter. As I sunk my left hand into the crack to the right of the 3rd bolt while pulling through the crux, I heard the sound of *something* in there which apparently was not particularly fond of me shoving my mits into its proximity. Gingerly, I peered in to see my abductee. Not a cricket, not a bee nor wasp, but rather a very pissed off BAT was showing all its teeth and clearly not happy with my intrusive digits. I'm not sure if this bat has made a permanent home here or was just visiting, but a heads up nonetheless. Aug 6, 2005
Kristin McNamara
SLO, CA
  5.10c
Kristin McNamara   SLO, CA
  5.10c
Chris has it wrong. The new bolts are supposed to be an entirely different route. You are supposed to bring cams up for that route. Jan 18, 2005
Maybe its just me, I think it is way easier to bring a small cam to use instead of clipping the new 3rd bolt. Jan 12, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
This route is more fun if you take a small rack and climb all the way to the anchors directly above. Mar 9, 2004
6 bolts! I seem to recall this being a one bolt climb! Mar 8, 2004