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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Boss Direct S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Tim Sorenson & Pete Gulyash, Jan 1981
Page Views: 3,331 total · 15/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Start 6' to the right of a large oak tree at the far right end of the Cracked Wall, directly below 2 bolts. An alternate, significantly easier start, traverses in from 8' to the right of the direct start. Climb the slabby face past several shallow, finger pockets up to twin horizontal cracks and your first gear. Work left along the ramp to clip the first bolt. Continue up into dish, clip second and final bolt, and continue up past a horizontal seam to roof and a good gear placement. Pull through the roof crack (fun!) to a 2-bolt anchor.

For those not wishing to lead Lama, a TR can be set by scrambling up and right of the cliff.


2 bolts, finger-size TCU (yellow), and a 0.5 Camalot (or equivalent).


Bob Hill  
I had the extreme pleasure of belaying and witnessing Mike Morley on-sight Lama yesterday afternoon. This was a true on-sight of the route, something that I would guess is a fairly rare occurrence.

Way to go, Mike. What a proud lead! Apr 14, 2005
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I've probably climbed this route 2 dozen times in the past year, and it always seems challenging and deceptive. There are two distinct ways to climb past the first bolt, as well as two distinct options just past the second bolt. The trick is finding the path of least resistance, which is not easy. Otherwise, Lama is going to feel like the hardest 5.10 on the planet! Jul 12, 2006
Marty Brenner
Durango, CO
Marty Brenner   Durango, CO
Great route. I'd give it two more stars if it was just longer. Sep 16, 2006
Jim Reynolds
  5.10b/c PG13
Jim Reynolds  
  5.10b/c PG13
Nice and thin on the bottom. Makes for some awesomely insecure moves. I thought the climb got a lot easy after the first ledge.

Almost seems like it was designed to chicken-clip the first bolt by walking around onto the ledge. If not, I'd be as willing to free solo it as lead it! Crash pad would probably take care of the boltless crux though, but who wants to carry around one a those? May 11, 2011
John Knight
5.10d R
John Knight  
5.10d R
The bottom, thin section is 5.10R, otherwise the rest of the route is 5.9/5.10a. You can easily avoid the bottom section by traversing in from the right (still 5.9R). Jun 3, 2011
Richard Shore
  5.10d R
Richard Shore  
  5.10d R
Onsighted this line today with the direct start. Good stuff, and spicy to boot. I was unable to place any pro in the first horizontals as they were PACKED with hard dirt. I didn't feel like fiddling around excavating the cracks with a nut tool, so I ran it to the first bolt. Not for budding 5.10 leaders. I've done sandbagged 5.10b face climbs in JTree that were easier than this, so I'll stick with the original 5.10d rating. Sep 13, 2011
If High noon is rate 5.10B. this route is most deffinetely more like 10c/d that first part is difficult. One of my favourite routes however. Sep 9, 2012

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