Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Bob & Rusty Garing, 1970
Page Views: 6,552 total · 30/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Dec 31, 2000 with updates from Christian Hesch
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

Start just left of a scrawny-looking oak, up a prominent, discontinuous deep gash. Good quality, dark rock that protects well. Awkward climbing - the trick is not to get sucked in too deep. Head up towards the slot, up and left a to 2-bolt anchor (new chains with rings added 9/04). One stripped bolt was replaced with one stainless steel Fixe 12mm bolt at that time.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Scott Bullock
  5.8-
Scott Bullock  
  5.8-
OK we all call it 5.6 because that's what we read in the guide book. True, most of the route is easy 5 but we all know squezing out of the chimney and moving out onto the face is way harder than 5.6 especially if you are leading it. Compared to Yosemite routes like After 6, Munginella or The Great White Book it is harder. The 5.6 is a sand bag in my opinion. If you are going to lead it take my 5.8- rating up with you... you'll be glad you did. Feb 11, 2004
Kristin McNamara
SLO, CA
 
Kristin McNamara   SLO, CA
 
I defintely think it's 5.6 if you have good crack technique. Feb 23, 2004
Marty Brenner
Durango, CO
  5.6
Marty Brenner   Durango, CO
  5.6
Definitely 5.6. Remember that flares, offwidth, etc. seem to have a different rating system to them... Sep 16, 2006
John Knight
Sedona
  5.7+
John Knight   Sedona
  5.7+
This climb was originally called "Dead Rats Crack". That name got transmogrified into "Dirty Rats Crack" and somehow landed on the ramp about 50' to the right. Anyway, 60 Seconds was originally called Dead Rats Crack. Here's the description from one of the first ascentionists, Richard Pfost:

While attending Cuesta College during the spring of 1971, John Mitchell, Romeo Betita, and myself, traveled to Yosemite Valley and took climbing lessons for Spring Break. After a week of adventure, we were excited to find some hard rock in central California. The only problem is that we had to wait several weeks before going down to Ventura to Chouniard Equipment to get some gear. After spending what little money I had on a new rope, a few binears, Robbins boots, some pins and a hammer, we started tresspassing on every property that had any vertical face. Early in April 1971, after class, we ended up on Bishop's Peak. Walked up and liked the look of the crack system, geared up, set the bottom belay and started up. Other than the oder of throwing out the "dead rat" from an area of a perfect hand jam, it was a great climb for the three novices. We did it a number of times, including learning to go from pins to chokes. We ran into Rusty Garing and his dad Bob several times up on the side of Bishop's Peak. We became long-time friends. Mar 19, 2009
Pete26
Aurora,il
Pete26   Aurora,il
This was my second trad lead ever and it was in my opinion slightly higher than a 5.6 even when I climbed it later on top rope. Very fun but in my opinion 5.6 is a sand bag grade. Takes pro very well for most of the route. Dec 27, 2009
Dan S
grass valley
 
Dan S   grass valley
 
Took lots a nuts very well. Aug 23, 2010
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.7
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.7
part pulling on jugs, part jamming and part chimneying/stemming on some really cool rock. Maybe take a couple extra bigger cams for the top half. good fun Oct 4, 2010
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.7
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.7
Overall a STELLER route that is easy to overprotect. You could probably place a complete double set of BD C4's (0.3 to 3) and one or more of C4#4-6 if you like. Definitely harder than 5.6 if you use little to no crack technique. I didn't see any place where jams would have been overly useful and efficient, as most holds were juggy and positive, but I'm not a crack climber.

Some of the dark rock was a bit grimy, but the humidity and cold of the day and recent rains may have contributed to that. Definitely will climb again and again! Feb 25, 2011
Lindsay P
  5.6
Lindsay P  
  5.6
5.6 once I figured out how to avoid getting too deep. Great route for my first outdoor climb. Love the views of SLO from the top! Aug 31, 2011
Hollywood Feb 3, 2012
John Knight
Sedona
  5.7+
John Knight   Sedona
  5.7+
At least you don't have to worry about forgetting any gear in the car. Feb 11, 2012
Christian Hesch  
  5.7
I'll give it four stars as it's a perfect complement to P-crack for teaching beginning climbers. This has hand jams, fist jams, stems, mantles, and a little low angle face climbing, but sure footing the entire way to keep a noob at ease. Also a great route to run TR laps on to build endurance.
Just still annoying that someone doesn't change the name back to "Dead Rat's Crack," which is what the original gang named it. I thought that was faux pas to rename someone else's climb??? Nov 6, 2018