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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ken Klis & Pat Meezan, 1985
Page Views: 953 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Jan 17, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb a left facing corner (the "eyebrow") to the first bolt. Traverse left on a ledge to a seam that starts at the second bolt. Then follow the seam and continue on through the bumps into the square trough on "Camel". If you want to top rope, use a directional to the bolts from the anchors above Camel.

Location

A few feet to the right of Burn Permit (the direct variation to No Permit Required), left of the 60 Seconds crack system. Look for the left-facing corner.

Protection

5 bolts. Optional gear (medium) at the top, but if you make it past the last bolt, you should be fine without. Well protected.

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M Alexander
SLO, CA
M Alexander   SLO, CA
Personally I find this route both easier and more fun than Camel. Plus its better protected.

EDIT: Well, maybe not better protected. The third bolt is at the crux. Potentially a bad fall from the best clipping stance. Mar 1, 2016