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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Boss Direct S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,352 total · 6/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Actually better than it looks. Start left of Crank You, Thank You towards the right side of the Cracked Wall. Follow a discontinuous ramp/crack system, staying right of the moss. Continue up mostly 4th class terrain with perhaps a 5.4 move. Two sets of anchors at the top, shared with Civilized Evil.


Light rack.


Original Name: Dead Rat's Crack (funny how names morph over time...)

fa circa 1971 led by Richard Pfost, followed by 2 others

He remembers pulling a dead rat out of the crack and throwing it down to the base, hence the name.

This route goes above the Civilized Evil anchors, over some bulges with hand jams, and to the top of the cliff where you can set up anchors, but use caution on some loose junk around (not often done but a very goood route, 5.7). Feb 16, 2009
I could have sworn Rusty Garing told me that Dead Rat's Crack was actually 60 Seconds and that the name somehow got transferred to what we currently call Dirty Rat's Crack. Anyway, just adding to the confusion. I guess we should ask Rusty & Richard to confirm. Feb 24, 2009
What about calling it DRC, it's easier than some three name route for such a short scramble? Whether the D stands for Dirty or Dead can be a secret. Mar 2, 2009
See comment re: Dirty/Dead Rat's Crack on 60 Seconds. Mar 19, 2009
Temecula, CA
TNT92592   Temecula, CA
I soloed though rapping down I saw two cracks where protection would take about 30 to 40 feet up the route. Careful for pendulm swing ot the left rappeling down if you were to lose footing. Aug 10, 2010
I started up to solo this to set up a TR on Civ Evil and got stuck at the 5.easy move up to the anchors. Tied off at a hollow arch 6 ft. lower while my partner hiked around and threw down the rope. I'm a solid 5.9 runout leader, so I'm used to being scared, but the move was a bit too spicy for me at ~40 ft. off the deck. Just FYI anyone who is thinking of soloing for TR on a neighboring climb. Feb 28, 2013

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