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Routes in Cracked Wall

2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
60 Minutes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
60 Seconds Over Soledad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bob's Cling TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burn Permit S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civilized Evil T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crank You, Thank You S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crankin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Curley Shuffle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Rat's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Guide's Area TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humps T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Llama T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mouse Maze T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Namasté T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Permit Required S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Only Way To Fly S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Race S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Western Airlines S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Flint Thorne, 1989
Page Views: 707 total, 14/month
Shared By: Chris Bersbach on Nov 17, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Sharing the start (and first two bolts) with Camel, Humps offers a harder, more committing finish through a cruxy mantle, and some thin dihedral climbing to attain a huge jug. When you head left after Camel's second bolt, clip a third before the mantle, a fourth afterward, and then place a small cam (a green C3 or grey Master Cam fits perfectly) in a slot above and right of the orb before heading up easier slopers to the chains.

Location

Same start as for “Camel” but head left after clipping the 2nd bolt.

Protection

4 bolts + small gear.

Photos

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Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
 
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
 
This is a great route. Today I did a variation straight over the bulge between "Humps" and "Camel". I would still rate it .11a but it's definitely an awesome variation. youtube.com/watch?v=uLXnxXH… Sep 21, 2014
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
 
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
 
For the record, I thought this was more like 11b, but I rated it 11a to stay true to the local guidebooks.

Update 08/13/2014: Having finally led Humps clean, I feel more confident critiquing the original grade - to me it felt like hard 11. Definitely more difficult than Western Airlines, and in the same ballpark as the direct finish of Crank You, Thank You. However, this could be somewhat height-dependent; my shorter partner cruises the crux using lower crimps that are too compressed for me to get my feet up. He says that none of the moves feel harder than 11a to him, so your mileage may vary.

Either way, it's a shame that this line doesn't get more attention. I've seen plenty of suitors come and go on the other hard-ish routes on Cracked Wall, but never seen anyone but us on Humps. It's a great lead, a nice line, has clean falls at both of the main cruxes, and is overall well-protected (for Bishop's Peak, anyway) if you bring the recommended tiny cams for the narrow slot after the final crux. Go get some, folks! Nov 18, 2013