Mouse Escape

This route is a variation or link-up of existing routes not a completely new route. I'm adding it here because I thought it might be of interest to aspiring new leaders who want the chance to place removable gear, setup gear anchors, and practice belay transitions for multi-pitch climbs. There's not a lot of places to do that on Bishop Peak that are appropriate for novice leaders. 

Admittedly this route is a bit contrived in order to achieve the goal of ascending Cracked Wall to its top without having to clip any bolts and use only clean gear for protection. In my opinion there's only one 5.6 move on this climb and the rest is easy fifth. 

P1. The route starts on Dirty Rats Crack and proceeds up the ramp for the first 30 feet or so until it comes to an end in a corner.  Set up a gear anchor here at a comfortable stance. (Alternately you can belay from the fixed anchors at the top of "Civilized Evil" but then you miss the practice at setting gear anchors.)  

P2. Dirty Rats Crack continues vertically up a blocky section but this route follows a crack diagonally up to the right aiming for the obvious roof at the top of Mouse Maze. There are lots of protection opportunities in this crack. When you reach the roof keep traversing to the right.  There are several possible cam placements under the roof.  Don't climb directly over the roof as does Mouse Maze.  Continue moving right and exit around the right hand side of this roof. There's a placement for a #5 Friend (or equivalent) if you want to have gear at your waist as you make this last "escape" move. Once past the roof head up another 15 feet or so and create an anchor by tying the rope around a large block. You may rappel from the fixed anchors here or continue to the bonus pitch.

P3. For those wishing to refine their trad leading skills, the goal on this pitch is to use only clean protection. You have to look closely as the placements are not super obvious. Some placements may require pieces not found on a beginner's rack (see below).

Start by moving right a few feet then proceeding up lower angle rock in the center of the face. Climb past the first two bolts but then stay left of the next two bolts that comprise "Knight Moves". The pitch ends on a large ledge with a fixed anchor at the back. 

Descent: Walk-off the right side of the wall (steep, loose, bushy) or make two rappels to the ground.

This route shares the same start as Dirty Rats Crack.

P1: medium nuts and cams to 3.5".

P2: cams to 2" and one optional 5.5"

P3: small cams (Aliens work well), medium offset stoppers. Also suggested: Tricams 0.25 - 2.0 (black - purple)

Chain anchors at top.