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Civilized Evil
5.10a,
Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3 from 87
votes
FA: Ralston Rutabago, Pete Gulaysh, Matt Mesa, Colin Berry/ Feb 1981
California
> Central Coast
> San Luis Obispo
> Bishop Peak
> Cracked Wall
Description
Begin at a large boulder at the base of the cliff, underneath a prominent right-facing corner. Climb up, clip a single bolt, and move left (crux). Fiddle in some gear and continue up to reach corner system. Great protection from here with nuts or TCUs. Shares anchor with Dirty Rat's Crack.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at Civilized Evil. There is a low-angle buldge right at the bottom over a boulder, and you can see the bolt above. The face climbing then lead into a sizeable right-facing corner. The se…
[Hide Photo] Chris Bersbach giving us the gun show while focusing through camera shutter sounds and shots from the peanut gallery.
[Hide Photo] Trying to find some good in Civilized Evil.
[Hide Comment] This is an amazing climb and a very challenging lead for the grade. The crux is being willing to climb past the first bolt which is about 25' otd. Anyway once you clip the one and only bolt traverse out left into the pinkish corner the holds are fairly obvious except for a hidden jug at arms reach. Reach high and your had will land in a nice horizontal hadn crack. Place a nut #7 or a #2 or #3 Metolius tcu here. Continue on up the corner where it gets a bit physical - small to medium cams protect you to the anchors above a small roof. The grunting and groaning is well worth it and you will have a nice badge since this route is seldom led!
Jan 18, 2004
[Hide Comment] A great route, you can lessen the runout to the gear placements after the first bolt by fishing in a number six nut in a small slot about five feet directly above the first bolt.
Jan 21, 2004
[Hide Comment] another vote for this being easier that 5.10 . there are some stiff 5.10's on bishops peak so i think this qualifies as a 5.9 or maybe 9+ . i'm also not really sure why this route wouldn't be lead much as mentioned by another poster seeing as this route has the closest thing resembling a bomber crack for pro anywhere on BP. good route ..... watch out for the tree branch on the way down....
Sep 18, 2005
[Hide Comment] Great route! Lead it this morning for the first time and got a #2 TCU into the big jug to lessen the run-out up to the corner. I also think this felt more like a 5.9.
Mar 6, 2010
[Hide Comment] You know that wiggly hold that never actually comes loose? It finally came out. Route's a 5.6 now. (It's not, it doesn't really affect anything)
Apr 16, 2016
[Hide Comment] Pulled about 3 brick sized pieces out from under the corner yesterday. One of the largest had been loose for a while, but this time I gave it a slight wiggle and the whole thing started sliding out. Luckily I was able to catch it and lower down with it. It seems pretty clean for the most part now.
Aug 26, 2019
[Hide Comment] If you fall at the crux and your belayer is not doing a good job or is significantly lighter than you, then you will probably hit the ankle-breaking ledge below. There is no way this is only 5.9. I give a vote for 10a/b.
Nov 12, 2019
[Hide Comment] Kind of contrived with the bolting... there is some random bolt to the left of the face climbing that would make more sense to clip but the route description says traverse left? Meh.
May 26, 2020
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That bolt is part of a route called Love in an Elevator (10c) May 28, 2020