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Areas in The Lizard's Mouth

Big Heat, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Breakfast at Tiffany's 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Femme Fatale Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Kelly's Hill 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
King Dinosaur 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Meilee Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Mouth, The 0 / 0 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Shop Roof 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Sit There and Take it Like a Man 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Smokeys Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Sunset Boulevard 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Top of the world/Entry way 0 / 0 / 0 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36


Beautiful sand stone boulders over looking the California Central Coast. The main attraction is a bouldering cave that has a 20ft traverse that can be done backwards and forwards. The cave contains many eliminates if you are looking for something more diffucult. Not a huge area, but worth stopping by if you are in the area.

Getting There

[Added by Matthew Fienup]

From Santa Barbara, take Hwy-154 North toward Santa Ynez.

At the top of the grade and just before the summit, turn left on West Camino Cielo Road (if you go through the pass and begin descending into the Santa Ynez valley, you've gone too far).

The trailhead for Lizard's Mouth is located 3.8 miles down West Camino Cielo, on the left-hand side (50 yards before the entrance to the Winchester Gun Club).

117 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Lizard's Mouth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
V0 4
Martini Madness
V0+ 4+
Lizards' Mouth Traverse
V1 5 R
Lord of the Flies
V2 5+
Ace in the Hole
V2-3 5+
V3 6A
Shaken, Not Stirred
V3 6A
Panic in the streets
V3-4 6A+
V4 6B
A Steve Edwards Project
V4 6B
Call Me
V4 6B
Johnnie Big Mouth
V6 7A
Fritz Bulge
V6 7A
The Tempest
V6-7 7A+
Gangster Hippie
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Goldak Mouth
V0 4 Boulder
Martini Madness Femme Fatale Area
V0 4 Boulder
Lizards' Mouth Traverse Mouth
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Lord of the Flies Femme Fatale Area
V1 5 R Boulder
Ace in the Hole Meilee Area
V2 5+ Boulder
Breathless Meilee Area
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Shaken, Not Stirred Femme Fatale Area
V3 6A Boulder
Panic in the streets Sunset Boulevard
V3 6A Boulder
Meilee Meilee Area
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
A Steve Edwards Project Sunset Boulevard
V4 6B Boulder
Call Me Sunset Boulevard
V4 6B Boulder
Johnnie Big Mouth Kelly's Hill
V4 6B Boulder
Fritz Bulge Sunset Boulevard
V6 7A Boulder
The Tempest Smokeys Cave
V6 7A Boulder
Gangster Hippie Top of the world/Entry…
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in The Lizard's Mouth »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Probably a long shot, but I lost a neon green Patagonia Nano-air jacket up here a few days ago. Has a small rip on the left chest. Took it off for a lap on the Mouth traverse, and some galeforce winds came out of nowhere. Almost launched a big organic up into the Lizards Mouth, and the jacket went flying to who knows where. Looked everywhere for an hour 'til dark, but no luck. May 2, 2017

Come join the fun - we'll have music during and a potluck and raffle prizes after. Glass and trash pickup, graffiti removal (by painting over / blending with natural color paints) Nov 9, 2016

Come on out on May 3rd, or any day for that matter.
The graffiti, bonfire remains, and beer bottle litter is everywhere. It would be challenging to not find something to clean. Apr 30, 2015
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
The graffiti is a definite eyesore, but the bouldering itself is phenomenal! This place deserves way more credit than it gets!
Apr 20, 2015
there is some really heinous new graffiti at the mouth proper, so huge and terrible and pink that its reflection changes the hue of the light in the cave. like medusa, one cannot gaze directly into the monstrosity without risking paralysis.. Nov 27, 2014
Enjoyed reading everyone's opinion here, as most of you are my friends. I agree with these comments and have seen the damage too. There are a couple of things that I would like to add here for the record. Pressure washing has been going on at clean ups for many years. I have a very strong background in geology too, and yes the rock does not hold up under high pressure very well. What was once smooth, becomes coarse. Although after time, physical and chemical weathering tends to return the rock back to how it used to be. I have personally witnessed several clean ups that a professional street cleaner volunteered his time and top of the line equipment to remove grafitti . He had a special ceramic bit that kept the pressure down and did not leave marks. Only a fine layer of sand was removed along with the paint. I was very skeptical and followed him around to make sure he stayed away from the boulder problems.
Obviously the people who did the last pressure washing job were not climbers, and they had their pressure washer turned up way to high. I believe they thought they were doing the right thing, although what they did has made me sad. Please do not get mad at Larry the ranger, he is not a climber, and has always been supportive to the local climbers. Lets continue to protect and educate the less intelligent . Apr 26, 2013
Another patch of obvious erosion from pressure washing is just to the right of Breathless. And whaddaya know, there's more graffiti right on top (the old stuff wasn't even fully removed), but now there's tons of deep pressure washing gashes there too.

Saw some people out there today grinding graffiti off of some rocks. I tried to politely let them know that their efforts are appreciated, but to ensure that what they are doing isn't permanently adversely affecting the area. The graffiti will dissipate, but if you destroy the rocks they won't come back. Jan 20, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Okay, EVERYONE stop what they're doing right now and email these guys. I haven't finished my coffee yet, so I'm possibly not in the right frame of mind, but this has got to stop.

Here's some contact info for one of the dudes: Jan 9, 2013
Wearing five fingers and holding a rave outside does not make you a "healing environmentalist". Idealism is not an excuse for ignorance.

Jan Jan 8, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Holy sh--! This is seriously awful. Not only is Larry in one of those photos but there is at least one long-time local climber who should know better... Jan 8, 2013
Well that explains everything. Someone put Juggalos in charge of cleaning up graffiti. Who is Larry and can someone PM me his phone number or email? Jan 8, 2013
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
The damage was there in August, so I started Googling around...

Fucking bingo right here:…

The culprits:


If you go through the pics, they did hit some other areas---and from pic #4, Larry must've known, but he obviously didn't learn the lesson from 5 years ago, Matt. Jan 8, 2013
This is recent, as in within the last couple months. These are problems that I do every single time I go to The Mouth. My previous visit was maybe October(?), there was fresh tagging (big colorful shit) at Brigid O'Shaughnessey and Sunset Boulevard. I don't think a climber did this removal, but someone possibly well intentioned who after botching one boulder, made the genius decision to carry on with the project. This is categorized as: EPIC FAIL.

If this person decides to continue, there is enough graffiti up there on existing boulders that numerous problems could literally be destroyed. Jan 8, 2013
Yeah, Matt, it does appear to be a recent event. I noticed it within the last year. This is right across from Steve Edwards Project V5 I believe. Jan 8, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Is this a recent event?

I am aware of an occasion more than five years ago when a Forest Service ranger (one who cares deeply about Lizard's Mouth and who has worked closely with climbers for many years) hired someone to bring a power washer up to Lizard's Mouth to experiment with its use for graffiti removal. After employing a large team of individuals to haul a generator and compressor into the site, the experiment was shut down after about 5 minutes. It very quickly became obvious that the rock is too soft to hold up under power washing. As I recall, the experiment was conducted on two different patches of rock.

Could the depicted damage be a relic of that isolated incident, or this a new and ongoing problem? Jan 8, 2013
Yeah Aaron, I'm sure you're right about that. I was perhaps a bit too pissed off to notice the obvious. What galls me is that it was a technique that obviously did more damage than the graffiti, yet they did it on another boulder (at least). Maybe not a climber, but good intentions or not, they're a complete dumbshit. Hopefully we can track them down and put a cease to it before they do any more damage. Jan 7, 2013
Hey Bob, I commented on the photo but thought it might get noticed here better. That isn't purposeful chiseling, that is clearly a pressure washer set at too high a pressure compared to the rock hardness. I would recommend checking with other local and active "land groups" and asking them who was active in that area recently. The person probably was out there "trying" to make things better and didn't know how to use the pressure washer right. Makes other local areas at risk as well if they think what they did "helped". Jan 7, 2013
Showing that there is no end to the degree to which humans can be hyper-lame, some jackass thought that the best way to get rid of graffiti was to chisel it out. This is at the base of Double Indemnity, it used be a wall of hard patina:

The graffiti at the base of Brigid O'Shaughnessy was also chiseled out in the same way. Perhaps others. Sad. Jan 6, 2013

Andy is right, thanks for all the time devoted to that! Sometimes I comment from work and that usually means I am in a bad mood haha. Looks like that rubbed off on that comment my apoligies. I will keep checking back on the app. It would be nice for newbies and even for those who go often to find new problems.

Sorry for the curt post... Will try to be more friendly in future. May 17, 2012
Hey I feel you Jonathan. That's why I'm working on adding more problems to the app. I should have a dozen or so more added within a month.

I appreciate your enthusiasm Andy-especially since it is coming from a guy who has devoted a lot of his time to improving the SB climbing scene. The overview shot does look pretty chaotic when you see it on my website, but in the actual app you can zoom in to get a clearer view. I'm certainly still working on improving the app's functionality though and I'll keep your comment in mind for the upcoming version. Here's the app site for anyone interested:… May 17, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Way to take initiative on the App! Whether or not visiting climbers or die-hard locals find it useful, I think it's admirable when fellow climbers devote gobs of their own time to purpose of guidebook paraphernalia. I personally thought the App a good idea overall—particularly the close-up picture of each problem. The big "overhead" shot look blurry, though, and possibly confusing. May 9, 2012

$2 is a bit steep for a guide to 60 problems... I think I will stick to wandering until I find my problem. May 9, 2012
I just put out a guidebook on the iPhone for the Lizard's Mouth with 60 problems, each with a photo and GPS navigation. Anyone new to the area and/or having trouble finding problems should check it out. Hope this helps. May 8, 2012

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