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Wheeler Gorge Rock Climbing
Routes in Wheeler Gorge
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Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Economique T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Goulara T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Trout S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1-2 5 |
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Off the Lip TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ojai Urinal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V3 6A |
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Riparian S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sick Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steep and Deep S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Stolen From Mike S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Elevation: | 1,842 ft | 561 m |
| GPS: |
34.5075, -119.2757 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 128,586 total · 524/month | |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 13, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Description
Wheeler Gorge boasts three totally different surfaces: typical central coast sandstone (Exodus & Blush), a metamorphic green schist (Danger Boy & Stu-Boy), and a conglomerate that consists of mostly fist-sized stones and deep pockets (Cobble Climb, Ezra, Goulara, etc.). The three could hardly be more different when it comes to actual climbing. Together they make for a day of incredible diversity.
With a few exceptions, the grades at Wheeler are soft. The site also exhibits quite a few one-move-wonders. Routes are generally VERY well protected. All of this makes Wheeler an excellent place for aspiring leaders to break into the upper grades (10s & 11s).
A. Monstrosity, 5.11+. Eleven bolts, three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Bolted & toproped by Reese Martin, 1995. Additional bolts & RPÕ by Steve Edwards & Arvin Gunta, 1996. The first 30 feet of this route collapsed in January of 1997.
B. Project, 5.11+/12b. Three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Right of Monstrosity. FTR: Reese Martin, 1995.
C. Economique, 5.10a - arête left of Goulara.
D. Goulara, 5.10c - identified by wooden platform at base.
Aquaphobia--Boulder problems: Traverse above pools: L to R, 5.12; R to L, 5.10a. FA: Edwards, Gould, 1996.
E. It Is It, 5.12a/b
F. Arvin's Rig, 5.10a Four bolts, one cold shut anchor, no hangers. FA: Edwards & Gunta, 1996.
G. Ezra, 5.9+**
Boulder Problems Under Bridge. Pockets, 5.10/11+.
The following routes are located immediately left of the lower tunnel on the soft sandstone:
- A-Frame Roof, 5.9. Gould TR. Slab above, 5.10. Project (not pictured).
- Sunshine Dust Bunnies, 5.8+
H. Exodus, 5.11a ***
I. Blush, 5.11a***
J. Slab to single leeper bolt. 5.9 R? FA: Unknown, 1980s?
K. Roadside Distraction, 5.11c
The following routes are clustered together on the conglomerate rock near the lower tunnel above the creekbed:
L. Slacker Dihedral, 5.8. Solo. FA: Gould, 1995.
M. Silent Mind, 5.11b *
N. Aha!, 5.11a *
O. Cruiser, 5.9
P. Cobble Climb, 5.8
Q. South of the Trout Farm, 5.9
R. Trout Farm, 5.12+. Toprope, 45 feet. Right of South of the Trout Farm. FA: Gould & Agulara, 1996.
Trout Farm boulder traverse, 5.11c. Stay low. High variation: 5.10.
The following routes are located left of the upper tunnel on the black conglomerate:
S. Scorpion Surprise, 5.9. Vertical pod. Single bolt anchor. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996. Scorpions!!
T. Fearless Hyena, 5.10a. Five bolts. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996.
U. Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy), 5.11a/b
V. Danger Boy, 5.11a **
W. Velocity Boy, 5.11b **
X. The Chimney, 5.2. Unknown. Variation: 5.10 finish on last three bolts of Velocity Boy.
Weather/Climbing Season
Wheeler is the closest thing to a year-round crag near Ojai. Spring and Fall are best. Deep shade and cool breezes make even the hottest summer days tolerable--I've even climbed when the temperature in town was 107 degrees. Winter days require warm clothes as the gorge gets very little sun. Rising water-levels will restrict access to some routes.
Getting There
From the intersection of Hwy 33 & Hwy 150, in the town of Ojai, drive North on Hwy 33 for 7 miles. 150 yards after passing through the third tunnel (the second of two in quick succession), look for the pull-out on the left. Park and walk back through the first tunnel to access most routes. A climbers trail drops down on the right between the two tunnels.
Classic Climbing Routes at Wheeler Gorge
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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