Elevation: 1,842 ft
GPS: 34.508, -119.276 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,473 total · 449/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Today
56°F - 46°F 13°C - 8°C
Fri
64°F - 48°F 18°C - 9°C
Sat
61°F - 46°F 16°C - 8°C
Sun
54°F - 43°F 12°C - 6°C
Memorial Day
61°F - 48°F 16°C - 9°C
Tue
67°F - 52°F 19°C - 11°C

Description

Wheeler Gorge boasts three totally different surfaces: typical central coast sandstone (Exodus & Blush), a metamorphic green schist (Danger Boy & Stu-Boy), and a conglomerate that consists of mostly fist-sized stones and deep pockets (Cobble Climb, Ezra, Goulara, etc.). The three could hardly be more different when it comes to actual climbing. Together they make for a day of incredible diversity.

With a few exceptions, the grades at Wheeler are soft. The site also exhibits quite a few one-move-wonders. Routes are generally VERY well protected. All of this makes Wheeler an excellent place for aspiring leaders to break into the upper grades (10s & 11s).

A. Monstrosity, 5.11+. Eleven bolts, three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Bolted & toproped by Reese Martin, 1995. Additional bolts & RPÕ by Steve Edwards & Arvin Gunta, 1996. The first 30 feet of this route collapsed in January of 1997.
B. Project, 5.11+/12b. Three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Right of Monstrosity. FTR: Reese Martin, 1995.
C. Economique, 5.10a - arête left of Goulara.
D. Goulara, 5.10c - identified by wooden platform at base.
Aquaphobia--Boulder problems: Traverse above pools: L to R, 5.12; R to L, 5.10a. FA: Edwards, Gould, 1996.
E. It Is It, 5.12a/b
F. Arvin's Rig, 5.10a Four bolts, one cold shut anchor, no hangers. FA: Edwards & Gunta, 1996.
G. Ezra, 5.9+**
Boulder Problems Under Bridge. Pockets, 5.10/11+.

The following routes are located immediately left of the lower tunnel on the soft sandstone:
WHEELER GORGE TOPO Red: Sunshine Dust Bunnies Orange: Gridlock Yellow: Exodus Green: Lil' Buckaroo Blue: Blush Purple: Roadside Distraction
H. Exodus, 5.11a ***
I. Blush, 5.11a***
J. Slab to single leeper bolt. 5.9 R? FA: Unknown, 1980s?
K. Roadside Distraction, 5.11c

The following routes are clustered together on the conglomerate rock near the lower tunnel above the creekbed:
Gwen Blanchard on Cobble Climb, being belayed by her father. Photo by Ashley Blanchard.
L. Slacker Dihedral, 5.8. Solo. FA: Gould, 1995.
M. Silent Mind, 5.11b *
N. Aha!, 5.11a *
O. Cruiser, 5.9
P. Cobble Climb, 5.8

Q. South of the Trout Farm, 5.9
R. Trout Farm, 5.12+. Toprope, 45 feet. Right of South of the Trout Farm. FA: Gould & Agulara, 1996.
Trout Farm boulder traverse, 5.11c. Stay low. High variation: 5.10.

The following routes are located left of the upper tunnel on the black conglomerate:
S. Scorpion Surprise, 5.9. Vertical pod. Single bolt anchor. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996. Scorpions!!
T. Fearless Hyena, 5.10a. Five bolts. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996.
U. Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy), 5.11a/b
V. Danger Boy, 5.11a **
W. Velocity Boy, 5.11b **
X. The Chimney, 5.2. Unknown. Variation: 5.10 finish on last three bolts of Velocity Boy.

Weather/Climbing Season

Wheeler is the closest thing to a year-round crag near Ojai. Spring and Fall are best. Deep shade and cool breezes make even the hottest summer days tolerable--I've even climbed when the temperature in town was 107 degrees. Winter days require warm clothes as the gorge gets very little sun. Rising water-levels will restrict access to some routes.

Getting There

From the intersection of Hwy 33 & Hwy 150, in the town of Ojai, drive North on Hwy 33 for 7 miles. 150 yards after passing through the third tunnel (the second of two in quick succession), look for the pull-out on the left. Park and walk back through the first tunnel to access most routes. A climbers trail drops down on the right between the two tunnels.

34 Total Climbs

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Location: Wheeler Gorge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wheeler Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 38
Ripple Rider
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
Cobble Climb
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Cruiser
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 82
Ezra
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
Stolen From Mike
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 67
South of the Trout Farm
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Economique
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Riparian Daydream
Sport 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Sick Boy
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
Goulara
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Exodus
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 26
Blush
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 34
Danger Boy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy)
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Silent Mind
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ripple Rider
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cobble Climb
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cruiser
 80
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Ezra
 82
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Stolen From Mike
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
South of the Trout Farm
 67
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Economique
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Riparian Daydream
 30
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Sick Boy
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Goulara
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Exodus
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Blush
 26
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Danger Boy
 34
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy)
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Silent Mind
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Wheeler Gorge »

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