Wheeler Gorge Rock Climbing
Routes in Wheeler Gorge
|Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5|
|Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A|
|Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|GPS:||34.508, -119.276 Google Map · Climbing Map|
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|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Feb 13, 2006|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionWheeler Gorge boasts three totally different surfaces: typical central coast sandstone (Exodus & Blush), a metamorphic green schist (Danger Boy & Stu-Boy), and a conglomerate that consists of mostly fist-sized stones and deep pockets (Cobble Climb, Ezra, Goulara, etc.). The three could hardly be more different when it comes to actual climbing. Together they make for a day of incredible diversity.
With a few exceptions, the grades at Wheeler are soft. The site also exhibits quite a few one-move-wonders. Routes are generally VERY well protected. All of this makes Wheeler an excellent place for aspiring leaders to break into the upper grades (10s & 11s).
A. Monstrosity, 5.11+. Eleven bolts, three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Bolted & toproped by Reese Martin, 1995. Additional bolts & RPÕ by Steve Edwards & Arvin Gunta, 1996. The first 30 feet of this route collapsed in January of 1997.
B. Project, 5.11+/12b. Three bolt anchor, 110 feet. Right of Monstrosity. FTR: Reese Martin, 1995.
C. Economique, 5.10a - arête left of Goulara.
D. Goulara, 5.10c - identified by wooden platform at base.
Aquaphobia--Boulder problems: Traverse above pools: L to R, 5.12; R to L, 5.10a. FA: Edwards, Gould, 1996.
E. It Is It, 5.12a/b
F. Arvin's Rig, 5.10a Four bolts, one cold shut anchor, no hangers. FA: Edwards & Gunta, 1996.
G. Ezra, 5.9+**
Boulder Problems Under Bridge. Pockets, 5.10/11+.
The following routes are located immediately left of the lower tunnel on the soft sandstone:
- A-Frame Roof, 5.9. Gould TR. Slab above, 5.10. Project (not pictured).
- Sunshine Dust Bunnies, 5.8+
I. Blush, 5.11a***
J. Slab to single leeper bolt. 5.9 R? FA: Unknown, 1980s?
K. Roadside Distraction, 5.11c
The following routes are clustered together on the conglomerate rock near the lower tunnel above the creekbed:
L. Slacker Dihedral, 5.8. Solo. FA: Gould, 1995.
M. Silent Mind, 5.11b *
N. Aha!, 5.11a *
O. Cruiser, 5.9
P. Cobble Climb, 5.8
Q. South of the Trout Farm, 5.9
R. Trout Farm, 5.12+. Toprope, 45 feet. Right of South of the Trout Farm. FA: Gould & Agulara, 1996.
Trout Farm boulder traverse, 5.11c. Stay low. High variation: 5.10.
The following routes are located left of the upper tunnel on the black conglomerate:
S. Scorpion Surprise, 5.9. Vertical pod. Single bolt anchor. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996. Scorpions!!
T. Fearless Hyena, 5.10a. Five bolts. Project. Gould & Agulara, 1996.
U. Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy), 5.11a/b
V. Danger Boy, 5.11a **
W. Velocity Boy, 5.11b **
X. The Chimney, 5.2. Unknown. Variation: 5.10 finish on last three bolts of Velocity Boy.
Weather/Climbing SeasonWheeler is the closest thing to a year-round crag near Ojai. Spring and Fall are best. Deep shade and cool breezes make even the hottest summer days tolerable--I've even climbed when the temperature in town was 107 degrees. Winter days require warm clothes as the gorge gets very little sun. Rising water-levels will restrict access to some routes.
From the intersection of Hwy 33 & Hwy 150, in the town of Ojai, drive North on Hwy 33 for 7 miles. 150 yards after passing through the third tunnel (the second of two in quick succession), look for the pull-out on the left. Park and walk back through the first tunnel to access most routes. A climbers trail drops down on the right between the two tunnels.
Classic Climbing Routes at Wheeler Gorge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season