Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Gupta, Gould, Edwards (1995)
Page Views: 1,809 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Easily the most difficult 5.11a at Wheeler--fully a grade harder than Exodus, Blush, or Danger Boy.

From a starter-rock near the edge of the stream climb up until reaching an obvious horizontal crack (only about 6 feet above the water). Traverse left until reaching the first protection bolt. Climb up to a major jug, clip the second bolt (marked with an aging white sling), and fire the thin and pumpy crux. Traverse right to join Silent Mind and climb straight up the slightly overhung face, clipping the last 4 bolts of this route.

Despite meandering a bit much, this is a super fun route.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 open shuts (new 11kN Fixe Supershuts).

The entire route is very well protected.

Photos