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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Gould, Agulara
Page Views: 3,413 total · 23/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 14, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Smooth, solid rock with a thin crux section near the top. Face climbing on small edges. The first clip is fairly high, but the climbing to it is easier than the rest of the climb.

The location is beautiful.

South of the Trout Farm is found on the inside of the first corner of the gorge after the first bridge (coming from the parking northeast on Hwy 33). It will be across the creek from you as you round the corner.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 Supershuts for an anchor.
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 


Aside from being very thin, these rings have not been welded into a closed loop. They are actually ajar at the connection, and produce a sharp, rope-damaging edge. Safe and proper hardware is rule #1.

I encourage people to contact me if they have any questions. I think new routes at Wheeler are great, Odgers and Becchio have done a fine job contributing new routes recently. But if you aren't sure, don't just bolt it and leave us with a couple shower curtain rings.

Hopefully the community in general can understand to discourage this kind of thing. When bolting on public land, we should be doing our absolute best.

And... in general, I also hope we can work together to foster a positive atmosphere that is aligned with the fun and free spirited nature of climbing. Aug 9, 2016
Monika Anna
Ojai CA
 
Monika Anna   Ojai CA
 
We just climbed the new route to the left of Trout (not sure of the name so I'm posting here) after hearing about it from a friend. It's an interesting route with a fun, tricky little crux! Not difficult but definitely makes you think with it's reachy clips and side-step moves.

One thing: I don't know enough about hardware to be an expert, but the rings on the anchor are TINY. When we topped out, we opted against using this anchor and traversed over to Trout Farm. I would recommend keeping this route up, but someone with some hardware experience and a spare 3-4 dollars should go up there and change those out!

Cheers. Aug 5, 2016
DMonti  
I climbed south of the trout farm and I as well saw the new climb to the left. Gave it a go and thought it was great. No claim on the route? Weird. I'll call it "phantom"... :) Jul 23, 2016
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
 
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
 
On Sunday I noticed a new line of bolts just left of Trout Farm, and gave the rig a go to see what it's all about. I do think it may have been possible to bolt an independent line, to the left, but the new line does share a bolt with Trout Farm. And the new low bolt will likely change the way people climb Trout Farm as it can be clipped to avoid the unprotected start. The anchors also include a set of rings which are absolutely unfit for climbing applications; they are a nearly spaghetti-thin, hardware store variety. I lowered off the quick links they are attached to instead.

I'm a bit surprised to see a new line squeezing on a very popular route here. We really just addressed this issue down the creek. It's my hope that in the future we can understand and agree, as a community, as to what constitutes responsible bolting here at Wheeler. I'd also encourage would-be FA'ists to stand behind your work, post your routes, and not to bolt anonymously in such a popular zone.

Don't hesitate to contact me directly with questions regarding hardware and other issues; I'm happy to help out and contribute what I can. Jul 19, 2016
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Careful of the loose rock after the crux where some good right hands are.

edit: careful of loose rock in various parts actually. Easy to avoid, though. Dec 16, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
FA: Mike Gould (solo), Gould & Agulara, 1996. Jan 24, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10a
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10a
Top anchor consists of 2 shiny new 1/2" Rawls with Fixe Supershuts (so nice!).

Special thanks to Erik Anderson. Jul 26, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10a
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10a
One of the few routes at Wheeler that feels stiff for the grade. I'd call it solid 10a, compared to the other routes nearby. In other words, this routes feels a solid grade harder than Cruiser or Ezra. Nonetheless, the crux is short and very well protected. Feb 23, 2006