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Routes in Wheeler Gorge

Aha! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquaphobia S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bean S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Free Zone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boom Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cobble Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruiser S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Pools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Economique S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exodus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ezra S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goulara S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gridlock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Irie Girl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Is It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Buckaroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lost Trout S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Grade Beaver Tranquilizer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1-2 5
Ojai Urinal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Riparian Daydream S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roadside Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sick Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South of the Trout Farm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stolen From Mike S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Velocity Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Water Boy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wheel, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Matthew Fienup & Jesse Groves
Page Views: 1,244 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jun 30, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sustained, sequential slab climbing on solid rock. The route heads straight up for four bolts, traverses left for 10 feet and then continues straight up to the top.

The first crux is passing the 2nd bolt, on tiny crimps. The route's true crux is passing the 6th bolt--stay directly over the bolt for full value.

Location

The line of bolts just left of Blush.

Protection

9 bolts (Fixe Triplex & 1/2" Rawls), bolted anchor with Supershuts.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.11a
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.11a
In terms of difficulty, Little Buckaroo is harder than Blush, is comparable to Exodus (if you follow that route's last bolt), and would probably only be 10c in Josh or Yosemite. Jun 30, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
A nice addition to the area. Good work, guys! Aug 9, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
While this route just barely squeezes between two other routes, its moves are distinct, engaging, and quite memorable. I'm surprised this line has gone unnoticed for so long. Beware grabbing any holds on the "roof" above the third and fourth bolts, as the rock quality is not inspiring.

I'm guessing Mike and I have the third ascent?

Just kidding... Aug 9, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.11a
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.11a
Believe it or not, when Jesse and I climbed this route, we were not even high enough that we could've touched the roof had we wanted to. We traversed below the third and fourth bolts. This also means that we did not clean any of the loose rock above the roof.

And the rock felt like Yosemite granite compared to the Fortress ;) Aug 10, 2009

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